Andy

Thanks. I wanted drop legs when I bought the truck but like many thing in our post Covid world what you want an what you can get are two different things. I’ll look into it.

If it matters 2021 F550 MPL40 twin line wrecker body I struggle when i need a low pull. Seems like I need this often. The wrecker body has two D rings which are at the lower edge of the wrecker body but still about 2 foot off the ground. I wanted a Chevron wrecker with drop legs but the unobtainium factor was just too strong. Can I mount a bracket that wraps around the wheel lift main upright beam at the bottom with a ring for a snatch block. I worry attaching anything to this area could compromise everything if something goes wrong. Or is there a drop leg option for an MPL40 and if so do the legs have a low anchor point or are they just for anchoring the rig. Or any ideas if you have done something to get a lower pull. Im ready to order an F600 with a larger unit and drop legs but it’s probably years away in todays world. So if it cost me say $30K to add drop legs id push the new truck along. I have to have 4WD so im stuck with these smaller trucks.

Thanks it’s pretty much the same for me. I can front the entire event. Get it wrapped up sooner. Maybe get more of what I want I’m pretty much a fabricator in my third job. It’s kind of stupid in some ways. Should just live with what I have I have a 21 f550 super cab MPL40 and a clean low mileage F550 roll back, But long term the bigger winch boom etc may make my life easier. I’ll hire a driver to run my old roll back and wrecker. And the f600 will be for recoveries. And maybe I’ll buy a used F650 or bigger rollback that will help on the longer vehicles. I suffer from ADD or something. Lifes good right now I’m close to semi retirement going to leave the shop and just tow cars part time maybe fill in at the shop when primary employees are on vacation. Since I closed one of my shops and started taking more tow calls I starting loving life more. Instead of the evil automotive shop owner I’m the hero. People are happy to see me they throw money at me instead of sniveling about what ever. I get to pull cars out of trees, and rivers. Nothing cool like that ever happens in the shop.

Cost wise is there much savings building this yourself over having one built. I am ready to order an F600 4x4 and have an MPL50 or 60 or whatever the heaviest Chevron body that will fit it. I gave up last year. Should have just ordered and waited but more trucks seem to be rolling off the assembly lines now. I think the build is not out of my wheelhouse but time is hard to find. It would be about the savings doing it myself. if I didn’t have to have 4x4 I’d do a heavier chassis with a DTU wrecker unit and just fabricate storage and features. And maybe someone can tell me if I’m going to gain much over my current wrecker. The new wrecker will primarily be recovery work and winch outs not for normal towing. I want more winch capabilities. Less extension rope and snatch blocks. Im a lazy tower if I can drag one or two less winch lines snatch blocks etc down some hillside in two feet of snow it will be worth it. I know Ancorability is a factor plan on drop legs. My current truck is a 21 F550 extended cab MPL40 and it’s been effective. Effective enough the boss ( my wifes ) has given the green light to add another truck anyway. Or am I really going to gain anything. Im thinking the F600 has a little more ground clearance I’ll have more actual tool and equipment storage a little more weight. This wont usually affect my GVW concerns most of this work I’ll have a flatbed on site as well. I pull a number of semi trucks and loaded delivery vans out of driveways in the winter some are challenging if I cant get close enough to a tree I know at times I’m pushing the limits. Hoping some added weight and the drop legs will help. Thanks Andy

You have to check with the wheel lift specs most actual tow capacity is a lot less than you might think. I tried to find this in writing just now but couldn’t but I was told by a fairly reputable source but an MPL40 wrecker body’s tow hitch rating is only 8000. I may be wrong. But id want to know before you gear up for this. theres also the GCVW rating of the vehicle. Sadly a 3/4 truck often has the highest tow capacity as far as legal, unless you move into a higher gvw weight truck and have a CDL which I assume you do not have or you would not be asking this question. The reason a 3/4 truck will have a higher actual tow capacity is that the truck weight is much less. I would like to have a Chevy 6500 its tow rating is less than a 3500. It seems to be why so many car haulers use 3500 series trucks instead of heavier units. Whole thing backwards in my opinion. And it’s damned near impossible to get a truck that isn’t de rated. I gave up for now. And yet another bit of information I found out. I parked next to a 2WD 6500 crew cab Chevy with a 12 foot frame. So we talked. Loaded it pulls trailers great. No trailer the things dangerous as all get out on wet pavement he suggested a tool box loaded with at least 1000 pounds near the rear axle. Now your trucks lost yet another 1000 pounds on its gvw. now a private party non commercial owner can get away with certain things in some states but for commercial applications that is a different scenario. And that means if the trucks in a business name you might not get away with some of the things a guy towing a 45 foot travel trailer would in a normal truck. A 19,000 pound trailer hooked to a truck that weighs minimum of 12,000 to 15,000 pounds is way out of specs for a 26,000 gvw registered and rated truck. I tow vehicles and cargo away from weigh stations to a parking lot 20 miles away often enough to tell you the fines and headaches you’ll run into are not a lot of fun. It seems weigh stations like to write tickets and down your rig until it’s under max weight so they’re stuck calling a tow company to reduce their weight. I’ve moved a number of cars and heavy pallets from the weigh stations. And some states like Washington the state patrol carry scales and can pull you over any where so you do not have to cross a scale to have to donate to the policeman’s ball and my retirement fund.

It seems some of the most dangerous jobs I take on are fuel deliveries. I’ll drive a flat tire to a safe spot but out of fuel different story. Performed one last week that was probably the most dangerous thing I’ve done to date. Had I not been in a car I would have hooked up a strap and pulled him and his trailer down the road to a safer spot. Was thinking I ad a small drill operated fuel pump and carry ten feet of hose? But thought id post here in case some of you have a better idea . Summers coming to the tourist trap I call home which means more fuel deliveries. My service vehicle is a car I need something compact that I can carry in a sealed tote or something so its not killing me on the drive either. I should put a hitch on my car and carry a strap as well.

Have some one weld the nut on. if you need a second size ball drill out a spot next to it. A lot of bumpers used to come either pre drilled or with knock outs for a second even third ball. And with that bumper it’s not like you’re going to be pulling a lot of weight any way.

Got the roll back stuck on a tow. Usually I chain up but thought no I got this. It’s not uncommon for me to get stuck in the wrecker I’m still living life on the edge in that thing maybe someday I will grow up probably when I can’t get myself unstuck. I should have walked the half mile driveway first but the customer told me he had a circle drive at the end. Which he did but the car I was towing was blocking it, of course it was. I ask questions that I know are too complex for people to grasp. You know things like could a UPS truck back up to your vehicle, is the driveway passable without 4WD and studs etc. people think because there studded Subaru drives in and out with no issues I can levitate a roll back to it I guess. This driveway was lined with sharp corners and trees close enough to the road I'm almost hitting them with my mirrors and back corners of the bed and of course there’s compound angles throw in the recent storm and that it’s at the base of mt Adams fun night. Fortunately the very trees that created the scenario that helped land me in three feet of iced over snow got me out. One precisely placed winch line ( that’s what I call it when I get lucky and things land exactly where they need to) then I had to back out then back back in and then drag this locked up vehicle on ice around that circle drive which was lined with rocks. Lots of stupid design engineering here. Two many trees to narrow of a driveway sharp steep corners and one circle end thats just barely wide enough in a car to get around and dont forget the large rocks why do people do that. I have some words for it. Id fire up the backhoe and chain saw if I lived there and make some breathing room. I ripped my front air damn off, had to crawl around the three plus feet of ice but it’s life. I bid the job well still made money nothing broken that will cost more than a little time to fix. It’s been a weird winter here lots of ice. Last year was deep snow and often which I like better than ice. No pictures of me wrestling the truck out I was gloved up 13 degrees and burning daylight but 28 miles of roads like this getting there.

Its what im looking at they have a 1 gallon tank and compressor package looks like I might be able to mount the compressor on the back wall of my tool box up high and mount the tank on the inboard side of trucks frame. Frees up some valuable space. I have no idea how towers do this job with standard cabs and one box. During the winter months my boxes are stuffed the back floorboards full 1/2 the back seats full. And even then i have to drag more stuff for specific calls.

My air compressor has an issue. It’s just the pressure switch assembly. Its cheap and easy enough to replace . Is it possible to put a much smaller compressor and tank in its place its got something like the Phoenix 3 gallon tank unit right now. I only use it for the winch remote controls. Never have inflated a tire with it or ran air brakes from it. Ive found a 1 gallon air suspension compressor kit that the motor is mounted separate of the tanks as well meaning I will gain quite a bit of space in my trucks tool box. Anyone know if it will be enough supply wire to run my winch remote.

Driver fell asleep at the wheel. Wasn’t a track at all where he most likely left the road and became airborne im thinking he was airborne sixty feet or more until the trees cushioned his landing. Suffered some injuries but managed to get out and to the road which was good because he was not visible until you walked about eight feet from the edge of the road. So many of my recoveries are on blind corners with heavy traffic Theres usually a tree and something man made that are in the way. This one had not only a decent sized tree and a drainage pipe but a fairly hefty washout that was a potential hazard given the soil was as loose as it was. Six snatch blocks, had to use the roll back to hold the front end from sliding away and also as an anchor because the side of the road had a thick layer or gravel and what I’d call fines from them graveling this section of road, the ground was unstable as you can see how bad dragging it to the deck of the roll back trenched it up.

I use three types. I live in the mountains. Steel framed strap on for thick snow and ice not great on concrete or asphalt but there about as good as it gets until you need snow shoes. $150 or more a set. Mine seem to be holding up well. While I can drive with them i pull them off if im loaded and not getting back out of the truck soon. Mine are called Leafspring or KTS hiking Crampons I think. I like them a lot. There is no rubber to break on these. Long term your probably going to win over the rubber band versions. Rubber band type with a chains and small teeth there great for light snow great on solid ice and you can drive with them on. Sometimes I leave them on. I like them but Im expecting lifespan to be low given the rubber band body barely fits over my 600 gram Danners. There about $75 mine are called Microspikes I like them just worry the rubber bands going to catch a tree limb or break from the abuse of dragging rope and gear up or down steep grades. Cheap rubber ice cleats these came from Costco there going to break on install I bet as the largest size I could find are very tight on large boots. Cheap though and effective on iced over concrete and asphalt . $15 to $20 if you dont see deep snow there probably a valid tool. Not my go to cleats for recovery work but I carry a pair in y personal truck and there good for just grocery shopping and loading a car in a parking lot thats iced over. You can forget there on and damage your floor. But youll remember there on on a tile surface when you fall two steps in.

You might try Zurich possibly listed as You Zoom as well they carry coverage for all types of auto shop owners and there rates are decent. Not many will cover loaner cars they do. The towing and bond was an easy ad for them im also a license Oregon dealer they handle that as well. Federated also came pretty close in there bid to replace them a couple of years ago they would also be an option as they offered almost carbon copy coverage on all aspects of my business.

I have one golden rule that seems to bite me whenever I dont obey it. Never leave for a job before you have talked witht he owner of the car and have confirmation of all details. WELLUGH. You know sometimes theres reasons why I choose to not follow my own rules. Late night cant get ahold of the customer need to get going so im not out any later than necc. thats probably the main reason. And it bites me 50% of the time. Last night there was a little change up here. Dispatch states customer does not have cell phone. They give me a number I called it its not a working number. So I head out its full on dark. The pick up location is a street but its more like a short alley .I find the house no garage only a small concrete pad cars not there no one’s answering. I walk the block. The next door neighbors garage is open and theres a car backed into it with the FRUNK open. Yep its a Tesla tow. I knock no answer. Dispatch invoice states car is unlocked key card is in cup holder. Car is supposed to be a Black 2015 Tesla Model S. I have no license or VIN. The car is a black 2019 model 3 keys are in the cup holder. Ill restate this garage is open frunk is open ( like there telling me this is the car) and the key card is in the cup holder. Now if this was any other dispatch system than one that starts with an A and ends with an O and has a G an E an R in the middle id have called and waited for someone at dispatch to tell me whats up. But there ability to get half the information right half the time leaves me with the beliefs that this is the right car there is no other street with this name and there are not many teslas rolling around in this right wing gun toten town. So I decide to hook it up. Im all but wrapped up loading it when the owner of said car comes out and he is pissed off. Took 45 minutes to get him calmed down and proved to him im working off a sketchy dispatch at the address at the house right next to it and theres just so many things that made this seem like the right car. Im finally liberated and hes taking pictures and making sure i have not and am not damaging his car. Fortunately I own one and have a pretty solid understanding of how to load and unload one. Couple hours later Agero calls me back they found the car its at a gas station 4 miles away customer still cant be reached. So now I guess I need a VIN or a license number on every job before I even think about leaving. One more golden rule to break at midnight. I remember them sending me down a private gated driveway in the middle of no where and was met with a not so happy gun toten man with a large aggressive dog. I can tell you this guy moved out here because he does not like people. The actual car was about 10 miles away from the pick up address. Its like there GPS software is throwing darts or something. glad to not have any bullet holes in me.

I’m looking at options for a towing rig. Not a roll back but for gooseneck fifth wheel and bumper pull type work. Eventually for long range transport towing. Tiny houses, three car trailers boats things like that. I currently own a Chevy 3500 dually that could fit this need to sone level but I’m in a position to sell that truck and move up in truck size. Which later on may not be as easy as it is now, one thing that continues to drive me nuts is the de rated trucks. I’ve found a new 6500 locally. But it’s been de rated and the de rated specs are just stupid. I understand when they derate one to keep it under CDL class ( maybe I understand, It still bothers me I can’t find a 33,000 pound roll back without waiting a year or more) but why derate one below that spec. I need to get some actual specs on this truck next week maybe the one sales guy who was on site late last night was not sure of its specs. He might have had the wrong information but he thought my one ton might actually have a higher GCVW spec? But looking at the online specs the 6500 could come with a higher capacity. beyond that and back to my main question what kind of feedback do you guys have on this truck. Thanks Andy

It’s crazy how we as a whole ( talking towing businesses) have killed the platform of a truck rated to actually do the job we’re going to use it for. i want to buy a 33,000 gvw roll back. There almost fictional. The de rated trucks are hard enough to find but an actual truck meant to do the job and be LEGAL well thats another story. I’ve talked with a number of other towers who have the dont rock the boat belief, then theres others who must have absolutely no idea of what there truck weight is let alone the weight of the object there towing. I get weighed often enough to know when my truck and your trucks over weight. Maybe knowing isnt helping me. I recall talking to a guy at a tow class who thought he was legal with a one ton dually and camper on his 19,000 roll back. He actually got upset when I told him he’s overweight he’ll he was overweight with the one tons front axle on the deck. myself I cross state lines a lot isn’t very often i don’t pass at least two or three weigh stations a week and in a busy week a lot. I also fill a junk car with scrap iron for our automotive shops. Legally I ask myself when are the troopers going to start writing us tickets and if one or two of them in my normal travels gets a bug up his ass now I’m a target. the other is the what ifs like a fatality crash that I get caught up in. Even if I’m not at fault and the lawyers start doing the math on weights now what happens. And they don’t even have to weigh you to know they can google your payload and truck weight never even pull out scale. I hear about towing boats and the troopers will google the boat and know for a fact your over width before they even pull out a tape measure. another factor in these de rated trucks they have lighter running gear and powertrain. Given the costs of a new medium duty roll back the last thing I want is a weaker transmission and suspension. What’s another $10,000 at this point. next up is the EV trucks there going to put a lot of roll backs over weight pretty much all of them registered under 26,000 pounds and there coming there’s now half a dozen Rivian trucks in my tiny little town. Hell a model S plaid will do it as well. while this has been on my mind a while my brother in law got his CDL eight days ago got two tickets on his first weigh station had a nail in a tire and his fire extinguishers mount was loose. Talk about under the microscope. If they adopt this policy for tow trucks what happens after I dump $180k into a de rated truck and the jobs I bought it for put me over weight. I know it’s hard to guess what the future holds but I’m thinking about if we have to start following the actual laws in this area. or am I just overthinking this.

I lifted one off the rocks running alongside highway 84 near hood River very similar trailer owner managed to get the tongue on the top of the ball, chains broke as it left the truck. One chain had some stretch before it broke the other just broke. I think we need higher quality safety chain laws for people without any experience or training. I see people pulling 20,000 pound trailers or heavier all the time chains dragging the ground not crossed ones lower than the other means the tight one breaks first then the second one. I hauled a dump trailer that probably weighed 18,000 pounds after his truck broke one chain was worn so thin from dragging the ground I could have cut it with dykes. almost scares me to be on the road.

How do you deal with these types of trailers with broken axles bearings springs tongues. There’s nothing that I’ve come up with to secure a broken axle or spring mount. There to long to fit on a roll back and often to tall to get to a repair facility without danger of hitting power lines. any of you have advice and maybe some pictures. It’s about to be broken travel trailer season I think opening day starts tomorrow. Thanks in advance

I thought that was actually how you park a subaru if theres snow on the ground. From the wheel that slips to the other wheel that slips. The salesman told me this car would go anywhere. Well from the picture above they found ANYWHERE..

In regards to this most of us don’t even think about calculating the line load when a vehicle that rolls gets to the bed. And that calculates to a lot more than we think. In the case of a 9000 vehicle the loads above the working load limit of most light duty carriers winch ropes let alone the load it’s putting on your winch. Time to weld in a ring for the use of a snatch block. Or at the very least hook a chain at the front of the deck. The fact that very few light duty roll backs come with at least one anchor point at the center of the deck up front is kind of bad engineering to begin with. Having seen the loads with a gauge in person I never would have thought they would be so high. But the math don’t lie. Im thinking there should be at least two. If you calculate the resistance of a 9000 truck being loaded on your deck when your trucks already parked up hill now ad in the factor of a damaged suspension component like its wheels off or worse pointed hard to one side. Two or more snatch blocks might actually be needed to load that without hitting loads well above the WLL of your winch rope. hooking your snatch block up behind the front axle or close will allow you to pull the vehicle as far forward as you can without stopping chaining it up and making a second pull when your snatch block runs out of room if it’s to far forward. I know it will slow the loading process but you probably wont think your winch is struggling next time you load a one ton on it. Big thanks to the TRAW tow class in Washington for this tip.

I meant to ask the last time you posted on adding weight up front. I own a similar truck with the diesel. And if the time ever arrives I’m installing an electric winch up front. Is there much to my advantage in adding some more weight up front than I already have given I have the diesel. My trucks got an MPL40 twin line extended cab no additional tool box on the bed. i ask because I’m kind of a metal whore. Its a disease that requires a shipping container to keep in check. I don’t really design anything unless what’s in that container will complete the task I figure one day I wont be able to build something and that’s about when it’s time to retire. I may have a while before I have to retire. I have these huge 1/2” and 5/8” thick 3x3 and 4x4 sized angle iron pieces I scrounged up from a fabrication shop that closed. I could pack more weight up there when building the mount for the winch if you thought it might gain me anything.

Don’t forget blackberries rattle snakes and sun burns

Ouch hope everyone is ok

I’m thinking about going to the Tow Expo in Fort Worth next month. there’s several classes I will probably attend if there not sold out but my primary reason is to look at roll back options. I’m planning on adding another truck. Would really like to see what my options are especially given that you can’t just buy a truck right now at least not exactly what I want so I might as well order what I want. i haven’t been to a Tow show before any input on what I might expect from it. Timing for this show is good and I have family in Dallas to see while I’m there so I’ll kill two birds with one stone. also any input of where to book a hotel would be great as well.

Makes me wonder if I should carry my lead filled hammer. I better go look at the grey hairs now as I feel old just thinking that i actually own a lead filled hammer. Old Vette guy here. It has been some time since I hammered on a wheel.