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Electric emergency brakes


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Is there any way to manually release these stupid electric emergency brakes when the car has them applied and has a power failure? Had a few lately that you couldn't jump and everything is dead and the rear wheels are locked. Another hurdle to overcome like getting them into neutral.

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Sadly, with all the manufactures having their own system, there is no "one way" to bypass them really. Now realistically, at some point in all those parking brake systems there has to be a mechanical mechanisim of some sort to physically apply the brakes. That would be my point of attack if I was to attempt to disable one I suppose. I usually give them one shot with a jump pack to shut them off, if that is no go, then out come the skates.

Charge accordingly of course..

PROFESSIONAL TOWING & RECOVERY IS NOT JUST A JOB.. IT IS A LIFESTYLE

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Yes those electronic parking brakes can be a mess. As far as I know for most of them they need electric to release. A while ago I had a brand new Dodge Durango that was in an accident, and it had power yet, so I turned the key to the ON position, with the engine off and released the parking brake. But as soon as I started winching it onto my rollback the parking brake would come back on. I finally had to start the engine to get the parking brake to release, which I could do since it was hit it the rear. I think they must have some safety feature that sets the parking brake, if it detects the vehicle is moving without the engine running.

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KEY WORD: Charge accordingly of course..

 

It is not the fault of the tow operator that these manufacturers designs cannot be bypassed for transport.

 

My Wife's vehicle has the electronic brake system. I told her I would not be setting up the automatic feature to set the brakes when the vehicle was in park. My argument is for years we drove vehicles and only set the parking brake if we were on a steep hill as a precaution. These vehicles do not need to engage the brakes every-time they are parked and therefore should incur additional charges. Boogles how many tow companies do not add these appropriate labor costs. What boggles my mind even more are how many charge the same for a rollback as they would a wheel lift without dollies. Yet charge more for the dollies on the rollback. Still scratching my head on that one and it's been explained to me numerous ways. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Most. if not all of these systems use an electric motor on the back of the rear calipers to apply the brakes.  They also have a feature that applies the parking brake if the car door is opened so you cant get in, release the brake, open the door to get back out and have the brake stay released.  I have had them that would let me release the brake with the door open, when I got out and shut the door and started to winch, the brakes had re-applied themselves.

I found that I have to lean in the open window and get the brake released without opening the door after or the brakes would re-apply.  To do that, I found that I need a rod to push on the brake pedal with the key on while I release the brake.

 

I have not verified yet, but these electric motors would need to be reversible to apply and release the brake caliper piston.  Applying voltage in the right polarity at the rear caliper would bypass the system.  The challenge in the field would be to get to the rear calipers, unhook the factory plug, install a jumper in the right polarity to release the brakes.  I would imagine that there are many different plug configurations.  If the plug configurations were standard a set of jumpers could be made, but would that be easier than skates, or dollies?

 

Skates, dollies and get paid for it.

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1 hour ago, Stubborn66 said:

 They also have a feature that applies the parking brake if the car door is opened so you cant get in, release the brake, open the door to get back out and have the brake stay released.  I have had them that would let me release the brake with the door open, when I got out and shut the door and started to winch, the brakes had re-applied themselves.

I found that I have to lean in the open window and get the brake released without opening the door after or the brakes would re-apply.  To do that, I found that I need a rod to push on the brake pedal with the key on while I release the brake.

On 11/9/2020 at 6:21 PM, Derlyn Z said:

Yes those electronic parking brakes can be a mess. As far as I know for most of them they need electric to release. A while ago I had a brand new Dodge Durango that was in an accident, and it had power yet, so I turned the key to the ON position, with the engine off and released the parking brake. But as soon as I started winching it onto my rollback the parking brake would come back on. I finally had to start the engine to get the parking brake to release, which I could do since it was hit it the rear. I think they must have some safety feature that sets the parking brake, if it detects the vehicle is moving without the engine running.

I have learned that most of these systems are designed to be " idiot proof" so the knuckle dragging morons of the world dont leave their vehicles in drive or neutral when they get out of it. Some of those "auto brake" systems on the newer GM vehicles can be overridden by holding the button for the release for 5 seconds with the door opened and your foot on the service brake, the selector in neutral and with the ignition in the accessory position. 

As far as the Chrysler products like the Durango's the easiest way to by pass them is to use the pa

rk pawl over ride cable with the ignition power completely off. Attempting to put the trans in neutral with the ignition on accessory will only cause the auto brake to engage or automatically put it back into park as soon as you take your foot off the service brake. The Durangos for instance have a pull strap located inside the console near the hinges for the arm rest. Pop the hinge cover off and there is an orange nylon lanyard attached to a plastic handle. pull up on the orange lanyard while moving the lock with a small screw driver or your pocket knife. Pull it up till it locks in place and you will feel the transmission go into neutral. The Ram pickups and most other Chrysler vehicles with the electric style knob gear selectors, the same orange lanyard system is located behind the panel in the dash just below the headlight switch near the D/S door. To re-engage it when your done, simply pull up again on the lanyard, release the lock again and set the handle back down where you found it. tuck in the lanyard and pop the cover back on. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sounds like a familiar subject. ; )

 

On 1/9/2019 at 9:33 AM, someotherplace said:

I have heard of junk haulers being able to bypass them with some trickery and it seems totally plausible; I'm sure the electric brake setup is a stepper motor or similar type design that you apply power and it engages, then reverse the polarity and it retracts.  There will be connections outside the vehicle near the brakes.  I'd be willing to bet that a little experimentation with a small jump box and some test leads, I could make it happen.  I was mostly curious if anybody else here had gone down that path and what the pros/cons might be; if it freaks out the onboard systems or if they're just not that smart and this can be done without any ill effects.

From the thread -> 

 

Warning: may or may not be an interesting read, but the spoiler alert is that a work-around was not yet identified.

 

Richard

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crawling under a car and plugging leads into rear calibers to back them off would be too much of a pain if you could even get under some of these low cars. I just thought I would check if anyone had a magical easy way to release them.

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I played around with the caliper on a jeep the other day, as I thought, a stepper motor and you reverse the polarity.  There is no easy way to do it along side the road.

 

I have been telling the clubs I need to use dollies to prevent damage and they have not give me an issue

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My problem is I only have rollbacks for cars. The little extra the clubs want to pay for dolly wheels it would take forever just to get your money back on the price of dolly wheels.  10 years ago I had a light duty wrecker with underlift and dollies and after cracking a couple aluminum oil pans on the underlift going over bumps and potholes and people not knowing if their car or minivan was all wheel drive I got rid of it. That is why I was looking for a magic way to release the brakes but I figured there wasn't and I guess I am correct.

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Check out our website at:  www.cjwagnerinc.com

 

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 Like Grumps said, charge for the skates, skates work well. I am not sure the clubs pay for skates though either  

 

For me, my bed on my roll back is steel and the angle at the bottom is not good.  I have to double the skates to get the tire over the lip. 

If a club calls me with a stuck in park, I take the wrecker and get paid for the dollies.  

A good friend will bail you out of jail, but a great friend will ...

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On 12/5/2020 at 12:15 PM, someotherplace said:

Warning: may or may not be an interesting read, but the spoiler alert is that a work-around was not yet identified.

 

I remember that Richard. I wonder what ever became of that member ? Havent seen him on here since....

PROFESSIONAL TOWING & RECOVERY IS NOT JUST A JOB.. IT IS A LIFESTYLE

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1 hour ago, GRUMPS The Towman said:

I remember that Richard. I wonder what ever became of that member ? Havent seen him on here since....

Oh, you mean Mr. Drag and Shake?  I'm no old hand and there's often many different correct ways to get a job done, but then there are also the very incorrect ways to go about it..

 

Either he chose to stop contributing, or is simply back under a different name, as those situations tend to go.

 

Richard

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  • 1 month later...

Unfortunately there isn’t a release. Certain vehicles do have them though. I’ve heard of using a power probe to get the brakes released. One dealership tech said he unscrews the electronic motor and releases them. Seems like a liability for me so I use skates or dollies

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have successfully released them on a few occasions.  I  used my cordless impact battery and some speaker wire the first time.  I keep a couple jumper wires with a 20 amp fuse in the truck now.  You can hear if motor is releasing/ or applying.  It strains when applying, and runs quieter when releasing.  MAKE SURE TO BLOCK/CHOCK the front wheels first.  Just do the tap, tap method, and only run it back until it frees up.  When dropped I use a Sharpie and write "Parking Brake Disconnected", on windshield. I also write it on the work order, and leave a business card.  I plan on making a tool specifically for these. A power window switch, wiring, fuse, and connectors from wrecking yard would make it quick and easy.  I only mess with them if going on the wheel lift

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2 hours ago, Midnight Mitch said:

I have successfully released them on a few occasions.  I  used my cordless impact battery and some speaker wire the first time.  I keep a couple jumper wires with a 20 amp fuse in the truck now.  You can hear if motor is releasing/ or applying.  It strains when applying, and runs quieter when releasing.  MAKE SURE TO BLOCK/CHOCK the front wheels first.  Just do the tap, tap method, and only run it back until it frees up.  When dropped I use a Sharpie and write "Parking Brake Disconnected", on windshield. I also write it on the work order, and leave a business card.  I plan on making a tool specifically for these. A power window switch, wiring, fuse, and connectors from wrecking yard would make it quick and easy.  I only mess with them if going on the wheel lift

That's pretty much how I imagined they could be released.  Seems like it's just a stepper motor or similar device that you power it to apply, reverse polarity to release.  I mostly am just concerned that it not cause any errors or problems with the vehicle if I released them, towed it to the lot, then re-applied them.  Everyone wants a payout on a damage claim whether real or imagined.  In most scenarios we just throw them on the dollies because we need to get off property quickly, no time to mess around with the brakes.  However in the rare case where it's a dolly job that has to go a long distance, esp. freeway, I'd like the option in the toolbox.

 

Richard

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