Ed Allegretti Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 New guy here i just started using a wheel lift on a rollback this year and I follow the manual. 2 wheel straps plus 2 safety chains. But on some of these rough roads and bridge joints it seems like there is tremendous pressure exerted on the wheel straps. I was thinking of chaining the car to the wheel lift so the suspension can't bounce as hard. Is this necessary or am I worrying about nothing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUMPS The Towman Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 If your strapping it properly using quality rigging then your just over thinking it in my opinion. Drive accordingly of course as well. Take it as easy as possible and use good equipment and she wont go anywhere. Quote PROFESSIONAL TOWING & RECOVERY IS NOT JUST A JOB.. IT IS A LIFESTYLE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rreschran Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 (edited) Hi Mr. Ed: It's always been my understanding that a smoother ride occurs to towed vehicles when they're allowed to ride on their own suspensions. Chaining to the wheel lift is just another technique (a Ford versus Chevy decision). Depending on the company's policy. Around here, many towers use chain and straps. My suggestion is ... build yourself a routine of safety and keep asking questions. Develop a style that works for you and listen to good suggestions. But, sooner or later you'll run into the Tow Police who seem to know it all. By coming to forums like these, you'll find industry knowledge that goes with respect. And, as it regards all towers with all levels of abilities, it's proper to remember, "We ALL were beginners at one time." Welcome ! ! ! ! ! On a side note, I'm interested in your logo. It looks like your a "Jeeper." Are you an urban Wal-Mart Jeeper with a CJ, or an extreme Rubicon / Moab rock climber? Pic: Me on the Rubicon ... I'll follow you in a first generation military HMMWV ... brake, throttle, modulation, right? Edited November 29, 2020 by rreschran Quote Randall C. Resch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doingitall Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 I too think you may be overthinking the situation. If you are using wheel straps correctly, then the vehicle rides on its own suspension, granted at a little different angle. It may seem that it rides a little rough to you because of what you see in your mirror, or the fact that you feel the movement as you are driving. Understand that the movement you feel is exaggerated due to the leverage of the vehicle and the wheel lift being quite far back from the pivot point (the rear axle). So while it may feel like the wheel lift vehicle is getting a pretty rough ride, for the most part it is not really. Going over bridge joints or rough bouncy surfaces you need to be aware though to drive with care, because again, the distance from the pivot/axle to the wheel lift and the vehicle can in fact cause exaggerated motion for the towed vehicle, so take it easy when needed over bumps. The safety chains are really for situations where there is a much bigger issue! They are there to keep the vehicle in tow behind you when something else fails. Generally they should not be too tight and should not bind with movement. I think you would find that if you attempt to reduce the movement of the vehicles suspension while in tow, you will actually cause damage. By putting extra stress on the suspension by binding it down, you will put a lot of pressure on the suspension in ways it was not designed to endure, and if you use the subframe or something else under the vehicle, it may not be able to endure the stress you might apply. Allowing for movement is really better when the vehicle is on the wheel lift, as long as the wheels are secured appropriately. The securement of an accident vehicle or missing wheels/tires is a whole other issue ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Allegretti Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 Thanks for noticing my logo im an old school off road guy built not bought type of thing. Lately forest roads are as extreme as I go but I've built a ton of jeeps and pickups for enthusiasts. The last one was a 05 rubicon I put in a 6.5" suspension lift and 3" body lift 37" tires then realized im too old to get in it. The hump was almost 4' off the street. Lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Allegretti Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 Thanks for the replies on the stinger mounting. I never paid much attention on short trips dragging them an hour or so but I hauled 2 pickups yesterday home from the sale 550 miles and that's a lot if time to watch the one out back bounce. The wheel straps were still tight this morning and the truck didn't move at all so I guess its as good as it gets. I like them better on the deck for long hauls but I wasn't making 2 trips. I rig the safety chains so they aren't tight but not dragging either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowZone Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 OK, the bounce isn't really as much as your feeling while driving. I am going to say that your cab over with a 19 or 19'5 bed makes it seem more than it actually is... As long as it's strapped down, there is good oil pan clearance and the shocks on the towed vehicle are good then I would not worry about. Soon you'll get used to the feel and if something changes you'll know it. Not a thing wrong with the cab over, but if you get an opportunity to drive a non cab over you'll feel the difference. Carry On... It takes 3 years to become established many start ups purchase new or nearly new and don't make it past 3 years. Watch that you don't overload the wheel for the Chassis, it's easier to do on a Cab Over. Just curious, did you tow the pick up trucks from the front or back. From the front on that setup there tends to be more shock load. From the rear there generally isn't much weight and they do bounce more. Now as a disclaimer I very rarely driver a carrier/rollback and have not been in a cab over in more than 30 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Allegretti Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 I lifted it from the front but it is only a v6. Most of my paying tows come from the local college thats why I went with the cabover for my new truck its super easy to get in and out of the parking lots. I was running a f650 previously it wasn't the best to get turned around. Appreciate the advice on getting established but I've been here 11 years just added towing this year. Thats a direct result of the covid crisis btw my accountant told me to buy some new equipment and I just upgraded the shop a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowZone Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Ed, I here you and that is a very good reason for the choice of equipment. Even though it's a V-6 if possible to the pickups from the rear. I say that know there are time it is easier from the front or due to an accident like the Ford Ranger with the fender into the tire as I had last night. When you do tow them from the rear watch the toppers, bed liners, swing out windows and hood air deflector, etc. As for being in the automotive industry for 11 years. While that establishes you, there is still going to be a 2 or 3 year cycle to get into such areas as motor clubs calling. Reps Watch several of the Motor Club forums so we may see more activity during the Motor Club Rankings. Hope that explains my comments as thought's to text does not always convey the intended message. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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