Jump to content
  • Join the TowForce community.

    It looks like you're not logged in. Register to get started and to receive Tower Down Notices.

Looking for advise on a low pull off the side of a 750.

Orcas Tow

Recommended Posts

Im learning something new every time I use the 750. I had a 25k backhoe rolled over off a road edge the other day, I positioned across the road opposite the backhoe parallel to the hoe slightly forward of it. I ran a high line directly off the boom sheave to the boom of the hoe through a snatch block then terminated the wire rope back at my boom sheave for an initial lift with the drivers side winch line. I ran the passenger side winch line to a snatch block off the tailboard D ring then to another snatch block at the U shaped pull loop at the bottom of the mast (see bent loop in pictures) then to the drivers front corner of hoe, through a snatch block then terminating the wire rope back at the loop at the bottom of the mast (as depicted in the drawing) not an ideal rig & didn't notice the bent loop until I broke the rigging down. Can anyone advise on a better way to create a low pull point on a 750? I saw a Treberon unit with a roller up high on the mast so you could run the line directly from the mast sheave down over the roller to a snatch block at the bottom of the mast then out to the casualty for a true low pull. Otherwise as I see it the 750's designed to pull from the mast sheave off the side directly to the casualty which you are stuck with a high initial line pull. Anyone using/used a D ring on the factory 750 outrigger?








Builder 2 tubered.gif said:
For what it's worth my u is slightly bent also, I think the way you rigged the passenger side line was over thinking, I would unlace the pass, side and pull directly from the mast. On the drivers side I tend to use a block down to the d ring, this will help keep the booms from side loading them real hard. I probably would have taken advantage of a Holmes tree. With a 750 you have a lot you can play with, just keep expiermenting. Looked like a nice job!
Orcas Tow tubegreen.gif said:
Thanks for the input. Picture #5 & 6 shows the rear re rigged as you described with a low pull off my tailboard D ring through a block going to another block low on the hoes rear frame then terminated back to my tailboard to drag the rear of the hoe back onto the roadway. I was concerned that with the high center of gravity on the hoe if I didn't create a high pull point for the initial lift it may not have uprighted or drug my truck sideways.
Builder 2 tubered.gif said:
I think the way I described would do exactly the same? only my low line would be in the rear and my high line in the front. Compared to your high line in the rear versus low in the front I would have been tempted to pull forward more and run pass line off d ring on tail board to front of the wreck and drivers line to a Holmes tree to the rear of wreck. Then you could winch it forward and still control the rear from tipping back over. Your blessed with lots of trees, out here all the farmers ripped them out so they could farm it.
Orcas Tow tubegreen.gif said:
Im used to running a light duty & taking advantage of every inch of rigging leverage that I can conjure up to flip a big dog over hence my high pull in the rear at the top of the hoes boom & low pull in the front at the hoe frame. Good to have multiple ways to perform the same recovery.
Builder 2 tubered.gif said:
I removed my twin booms and sold them, replaced with a kemps set up, just about done.
sdr said:
if I remember "been a long time" those U rings on the side of the mast are for chaining the outrigger.
MACK6X6 said:
 Correct me if I'm wrong, but the loop that you bent is for chaining back the side leg - not designed for pulling off with a snatch block - only designed to pull straight out at 90* of the side.  On my 600, I have a loop welded (factory) close to the pivot on the boom that you could do what you did and it will be fine.  You can always fasten (weld or bolt) another pull point / d-ring down close to where you were.  The procedure you used was excellent - just the wrong point.  Thanks, Steve.
EagleOne said:
That side loop isn't for winching. Just my 2 cents.
Orcas Tow tubegreen.gif said:
Whats it for, there's 2 on each side, one high on the mast & the other at deck height?
I believe if you drop the line off your boom you can double up a side pull off the mast close to 90 degrees .
lower one is for chaining your side leg so it doesn't slide out.
Hard pull drop the other side off boom and anchor to a tree doubled up to anchor the truck , now you can really pull .
If the situation warrants swing the booms for higher lift if needed . always use more lines to your anchor side than to your winching side , for just in case .
Orcas Tow tubegreen.gif said:
Thanks for the input. the sheave will not allow for an immediate drop off the mast, about a 45 degree drop of the sheave is all it will allow before the end of the sheave hits the mast hence my creative rigging to get a low pull off the side (which worked this time but noticed it damaged the loop when breaking down the rigging).
Allenstowing tubegreen.gif said:
Here is an old ad picture.

Orcas Tow tubegreen.gif said:
Perfect, thank you!

Hello from sunny (when its not raining) Orcas Island

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up