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Orcas Tow

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Orcas Tow last won the day on June 10 2018

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About Orcas Tow

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  1. Orcas Tow

    Steel core versus super swagged cable

    I run swaged on all my light duty wreckers & flatbed & would not use anything else. With that said I ran it on my 14 ton with 12 Warn winches, small winch drums, the stiff 1/2" swaged rope didnt like the small drum, fought with it until I sold it for a Holmes 750
  2. Orcas Tow

    Subaru on the rocks.

    Thanks. The 4x6 wood block was to create distance between my wire rope & the fender & yes I always try & minimize my liability & maximize safety of others that may not be aware while working in a public area:)
  3. Topic Originally Created in February of 2007: Had to remove this truck from the transprters rig, winched it off & ran another line in to a tie down in front of the T with a snatch block & back to the front axle so it wouldn't roll back on me, story was this was built for Disneyland back in the day, its a working popcorn maker on a big scale with miles of polished copper pipe & a huge copper kettle inside. Hello from sunny (when its not raining) Orcas Island
  4. Orcas Tow

    Chevron Renegade

    FLC has a sharp truck. Id be curious to see that trucks deck & box layout also Ed. Heres a few of mine.
  5. Had a call for a car on a rock due to unable to see out frozen windshield😖 . Lift car & pull the rock out using what I had for an anchor across the street, it was driven away. Lucky there was no kids in front of her as it was that time of morning...
  6. What a mess, thanks for sharing & keep up the good work.
  7. Im learning something new every time I use the 750. I had a 25k backhoe rolled over off a road edge the other day, I positioned across the road opposite the backhoe parallel to the hoe slightly forward of it. I ran a high line directly off the boom sheave to the boom of the hoe through a snatch block then terminated the wire rope back at my boom sheave for an initial lift with the drivers side winch line. I ran the passenger side winch line to a snatch block off the tailboard D ring then to another snatch block at the U shaped pull loop at the bottom of the mast (see bent loop in pictures) then to the drivers front corner of hoe, through a snatch block then terminating the wire rope back at the loop at the bottom of the mast (as depicted in the drawing) not an ideal rig & didn't notice the bent loop until I broke the rigging down. Can anyone advise on a better way to create a low pull point on a 750? I saw a Treberon unit with a roller up high on the mast so you could run the line directly from the mast sheave down over the roller to a snatch block at the bottom of the mast then out to the casualty for a true low pull. Otherwise as I see it the 750's designed to pull from the mast sheave off the side directly to the casualty which you are stuck with a high initial line pull. Anyone using/used a D ring on the factory 750 outrigger? Builder 2 said: For what it's worth my u is slightly bent also, I think the way you rigged the passenger side line was over thinking, I would unlace the pass, side and pull directly from the mast. On the drivers side I tend to use a block down to the d ring, this will help keep the booms from side loading them real hard. I probably would have taken advantage of a Holmes tree. With a 750 you have a lot you can play with, just keep expiermenting. Looked like a nice job! Orcas Tow said: Thanks for the input. Picture #5 & 6 shows the rear re rigged as you described with a low pull off my tailboard D ring through a block going to another block low on the hoes rear frame then terminated back to my tailboard to drag the rear of the hoe back onto the roadway. I was concerned that with the high center of gravity on the hoe if I didn't create a high pull point for the initial lift it may not have uprighted or drug my truck sideways. Builder 2 said: I think the way I described would do exactly the same? only my low line would be in the rear and my high line in the front. Compared to your high line in the rear versus low in the front I would have been tempted to pull forward more and run pass line off d ring on tail board to front of the wreck and drivers line to a Holmes tree to the rear of wreck. Then you could winch it forward and still control the rear from tipping back over. Your blessed with lots of trees, out here all the farmers ripped them out so they could farm it. Orcas Tow said: Im used to running a light duty & taking advantage of every inch of rigging leverage that I can conjure up to flip a big dog over hence my high pull in the rear at the top of the hoes boom & low pull in the front at the hoe frame. Good to have multiple ways to perform the same recovery. Builder 2 said: I removed my twin booms and sold them, replaced with a kemps set up, just about done. sdr said: if I remember "been a long time" those U rings on the side of the mast are for chaining the outrigger. MACK6X6 said: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the loop that you bent is for chaining back the side leg - not designed for pulling off with a snatch block - only designed to pull straight out at 90* of the side. On my 600, I have a loop welded (factory) close to the pivot on the boom that you could do what you did and it will be fine. You can always fasten (weld or bolt) another pull point / d-ring down close to where you were. The procedure you used was excellent - just the wrong point. Thanks, Steve. EagleOne said: That side loop isn't for winching. Just my 2 cents. Orcas Tow said: Whats it for, there's 2 on each side, one high on the mast & the other at deck height? JUSTFISHING said: I believe if you drop the line off your boom you can double up a side pull off the mast close to 90 degrees . lower one is for chaining your side leg so it doesn't slide out. Hard pull drop the other side off boom and anchor to a tree doubled up to anchor the truck , now you can really pull . If the situation warrants swing the booms for higher lift if needed . always use more lines to your anchor side than to your winching side , for just in case . Orcas Tow said: Thanks for the input. the sheave will not allow for an immediate drop off the mast, about a 45 degree drop of the sheave is all it will allow before the end of the sheave hits the mast hence my creative rigging to get a low pull off the side (which worked this time but noticed it damaged the loop when breaking down the rigging). Allenstowing said: Here is an old ad picture. Orcas Tow said: Perfect, thank you!
  8. Recently a friend retired his tow company his father started in 1962, I bought his 1981 Kenworth W900A, 350 Cummins/1962 Holmes 750 with a 30k Zacklift. I am getting to know her, never using a mechanical wrecker before there is a learning curve I understand. I have been over all the moving parts, inspecting, greasing, flushing fluids, adjusting PTO chain, replacing boom cables, etc. She's a good old girl that will serve me well on my small island. I am wondering if someone familiar with the split booms can enlighten me on if you can perform a hard side pull directly off the boom with them pinned together, say a heavy truck in the ditch on a narrow road, can I use one line directly off the boom on a hard side pull & the other down to a snatchblock off the tailboard D ring then to the casualty for a low pull. Will the center pin connecting the booms handle a hard side pull? Thanks. builder 2 said: I usually run a block off the d ring to help relieve stress from side load on the booms. You can also unlace the cable from the boom and pull directly from the mast, depending on the angle the side leg could be used. I have 2 A models that we run and I love them. Orcas Tow said: Thanks for the reply. So a hard (45 degree) side pull is not recommended then? Im thinking simplicity, the boom sheaves are 12' in the air, any words of wisdom about pulling the wire rope out of the sheave without manually lowering the booms or is lowering the only option? I do understand the physics of pulling directly from the mast but pulling the rope from the sheaves at 12' to achieve a mast pull seems sketchy for my health:). builder 2 said: You should be able to do a hard 45 degree pull from the boom, I just run a second line through a block or dead end the cable at the d ring to reduce side load on the booms/latch. As far as raising/ lowering the booms. That's the down side of non hydraulics. They will make you work. On the plus side based on your experience and thinking outside the box you will make this truck sing. Looks like a zacklift, any spades? Orcas Tow said: I restrung the 200' pair of 5/8" wire ropes on the drums & also replaced the wire rope for the booms, all bigger & heavier than what Im used to. Its been fun, really respecting the old school operators, no excuses, no second chances, no OSHA approved equipment, pay attention/respect to what your doing or someones getting hurt. Yes hydraulic spades & a Z-30 Zacklift, can't wait to really put her to the test, trying to educate myself to use the combo to its full potential. builder 2 said: A lot of the 750's were on a shorter wheelbase, which helps doing recovery work on back road and tight spaces. Nice looking truck. If it was close to me I would have bought it. MACK6X6 said: If you are doing a heavy pull / recovery, I would get the truck "set" with the lines in the booms. Then, if you want to pull off the mast you can take the lines out and simply swing the booms out of your way rather than lower them. On ours, we installed a large D-ring in the center of the tailboard at the very top and will run the line from the mast through a block, then back to the casualty. Of course, we don't have all the obstructions on our tailboard that you do but you get the picture. You may be able to get one in there. Also, the feet on the Zach stiff legs are small - you may want to cut them off & install something larger along with Trebron concrete spikes. Excellent recovery unit - looks nice. Steve. Bob Graham said: looks like it has homemade booms and support frame , booms are too long / high Orcas Tow said: Correct, the booms have been replaced. What was the length of the original 750 booms? I was told it was a 1962 bed which would have been web booms (?), the bed sits on top of a heavy full length 6x6 I beam, the mast is bolted & then welded with gussets to the I beam, then the I beam sits on top of the KW frame. It was all done in the 90's & there is not a paint crack around any welds or mounting bolts. santiam01 said: Usually, you will tip the tow truck over, or drag the nose of the truck in line with the pull, before you do any damage to a 750, on a side pull, straight off the end of the boom. Just make sure the controls are in good shape, not much worse then getting a mechanical unit stuck in gear......By the way, that's a good looking truck, & I know you will make it even better! MACK6X6 said: There were 2 different lengths of square (usually extendable) booms (that I know of anyway), depending on whether or not it was mounted on a single axle or tandem axle truck - but I don't know the length. And Santiam is very correct, if you are on a hard pull, just because you "let up" on the levers doesn't mean they will disengage - sometimes you have to "yank" them out of gear - makes ya' a little nervous. LOL. Good luck, Steve. Orcas Tow said: This has been converted to large air rams to engage & disengage winches, I will click a picture later of the rams. Hope this will address any sticking engaged on a hard pull but the PTO & clutch air in/out are close to the controls in a pickle. Reds said: Snatch blocks are your best friends with one of these, we run a few yet. In reference to the winches staying locked in I believe your thinking free spool...not the case here, although if you look how your winches free spool with the air rams your referring to you have 3 teeth that disengage for free wheel or engage/winching operations...that same set up on a gear reduction is what's inside that winch box to forward the rope or reverse the rope hence the dogging in or clash sound of the gears when you hit the levers for winching. If your on a hard pull you've got the winches pulling cable in things are creaking and groaning just because you let off those levers doesn't mean she stops those internal gears will bind sometimes to where you have to actually yank the lever pretty good to make it stop winching, you'll know when it happens just be ready cause as mentioned it'll pull it's self right over. At that point it simply means you need another part to the line. On hard pulls with these I just put 3 parts to the line and let it work seems the leverage is so much better, its slow going but it is what it is. As the booms look about right it is said roughly 12 inches above the mast +- keeps a little down pressure on the ass for you. When I run directly off the mast I'll loosen the rope to the point of no weight on it take the rope out of the boom heads then split the booms holding on to them so the don't swing to far out of the way .there heavy and hard to get back together once 90 out and they will get there if your leaning one way seems one side always goes down first on a hard pull. On one truck we put tabs at the base of the boom with chains to hold them from swinging to far. There fun simple units to run and use, rigging and action reaction is the key thinking one step ahead. On a couple side notes the 750s can spool 250ft comfortably 5/8 rope. You also made mention you replace the boom rope with new and bigger, be careful in doing so larger rope on the pulleys can result in 2 very negative reactions 1) the rope doesn't fit well so it smashes it down into the groove of the pulley possibly breaking some strands leading to future failure. 2) The rope does smash down into the groove possibly splitting the pulley apart resulting in failure those pulleys were cast and they do break I've broke the ones where the rope comes through the mast back to the boom heads 2 of them on my 600's I suggest you replace them ASAP just because. Trebron does have replacements that we've used there steel with a bronze bushing I'm sure if you look you'd see rope lines in the current pulleys (there soft metal) They will always break when you have 105 ft of rope out so as to ruin the whole line LOL. As far as a side pull you can pull any angle you want on that unit and your not going to hurt it or the boom pin the truck will walk itself and find the happy medium now your front end may be on a embankment when said and done and you can't move cause your stuck but they are pretty tough to destroy or hurt. But you must respect them and listen to them they will talk to you through the chassis, wrecker, winch levers, etc. Good luck....FYI holmes has 2 boom sizes for the 750s X-7 is what there referred to hence extend 7 feet. MECHANICALLY The 750 single axle boom length is 135 1/2 inches retracted 219 1/2 extended these were also found on a lot of 600's also they put bushings where they pin on to make them fit...simple economical business sense smarts it interchanges seeing's how holmes only made couple different size bodies. The 750 tandem body used a 166 1/2 retracted and 251 1/2 extended boom. Boom heads typically hang a bit over the tailboard as todays hydraulics do. 1 more note as your booms were replaced or reworked they don't have the loops towards the base like OEM (find some pictures of other trucks and study the booms at the base) These loops can be used for a couple different things like I hang my snatch blocks from them...On one truck we have a short chain to them so they don't swing around...or you can hook the cable hook to them hit the lever raise it up a bit unlatch the boom cog WITH OUT THE CRANK ON THE DRUM and lower it down 1 side at a time set it right on the bed and reverse to raise the boom (no or minimal cranking involved) Just a few tad bits on that learning curve. Send me a cell number I'll snap a couple pictures and send them to you if you'd like. OrcasTow said: Here's the air rams for the winch in/out. I have not loaded the winches yet but will this weekend for some testing, better to find out in private than in public. Wesley, I believe the boom rope was 5/8" from the factory, thats what I re installed, it fits the sheaves well. Your the 3rd person to advise not leaving the boom crank in place:) I did notice the loops on the booms are not there, might be a handy addition in the future. Trex said: I own 2 750s and they re beasts and if u run a 3 part line when you need it well thats a beast on steroid Just curious whats your wheelbase? hope you make a lot of money. Greets from Panama. builder 2 said: Have you had to use it yet? Let's see some action photos! Orcas Tow said: A few times so far, a Garbage truck tow, Propane tanker winch & propane truck tow, all pretty straight forward. Will get something fun to share soon. Its amazing this truck handles the same empty or loaded with 30k behind it:)
  9. Orcas Tow

    Single line 4x4 Wreckers

    Agreed, how much more $$$ is it for a dual winch on a $80-90k truck, $2k? Seems silly losing a sale for $2k. I had mine built new because I couldn't find a 4x4 Miller truck anywhere on the ground to the specs I wanted.
  10. Detailed pictures - 2 trucks, lift & remove 2 large rocks that they had driven over the evening before. Perched on top of 2 large rocks, the gas tank had a 5 gallon dent & was sitting on top of the largest of the 2 rocks. We had to be careful to lift & not drag to prevent further damage to the gas tank, more to the story to the right...
  11. Orcas Tow

    Ting noise at takeoff

    My 2001 F550 had done the same thing since new, thought it was just normal until I did the clutch at 50,000 miles & found the transfer case output yoke had play, torqued the nut to spec with loc tight & all is good.
  12. Orcas Tow

    Ting noise at takeoff

    I would confirm torque on the pinion nut & the trans/transfer case output yoke nut, one of those may be loose enough for the yoke to rock in the splines causing that noise which will transfer throughout the driveshaft & make it difficult to pinpoint source by ear..
  13. Orcas Tow

    F650 blowing "Allison Transmission" fuse help

    To follow up I never have been able to duplicate the symptom after tanks of fuel run through it & my diagnostic testers hooked up so I ended up running a single new wire outside the harness back to the Trans module clipping the factory white/orange tracer wire at each end. With no symptom present at this time I think its the best solution.
  14. Orcas Tow

    Balancing 19.5 tires?

    2001, everything is tight & minor imbalance before balance beads installed in unbalanced tires, then considerable wobble after beads.
  15. Orcas Tow

    Balancing 19.5 tires?

    Interesting update, I was happy with the difference in the F650 with 245/70-19.5 after adding the balancing beads I put some in my F550 with Alcoa's & 225/70-19.5. The outcome was different, prior to balancing the 550 had a slight tire imbalance at speed but hardly noticeable, after 6 oz of beads in each tire on the front now the steering wheel has a visible shake. Not sure what the deal is.