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Orcas Tow

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Everything posted by Orcas Tow

  1. Orcas Tow

    My "recovery wheel thingy"

    This Topic was originally created on Tow411 in July of 2008: There's been a few times when I get called for a wreck where PD says the tires are flat & or suspension is ripped out & its on or near the roadway & does not require a wrecker so I bring the flatbed, well I'm sure we have all been there when we get there its over an embankment on a narrow road & we wish we would have brought the wrecker, being a primarily one man show going back for the wrecker is usually not a timely option. I have been looking into the side pullers but too expensive (for my small operation) for the limited use & up fitting, I called 2 NRC distributors to price/buy their unit as they seem to have it figured out with their tailboard transformer but no return calls (maybe they don't want to sell an NRC product for use on a non NRC bed???) I took a couple 4 ton snatch blocks & a winch guide roller, welded the blocks together, cut a 7/16" slot in the top for the wire rope to slip down in, put 1/4" plate reinforcements inside the blocks for pin support & side load strength, welded a 1/4" angle on the sheave end for a place for the bottom roller ears to mount & a place to catch the end of the deck for side load strength, a 1/4" plate gusseted under the angle capturing the bottom of the deck, drilled a couple 5/8" holes in the deck where the original snatch block release bolts went & bolted the unit from under the deck with 2 5/8" grade 8 bolts, after a couple practice pulls I think it will work great when needed, heres some pic's because I have a hard time following what I just posted. All done for under $150 worth of supplies. The block works well for rewinding the wire rope onto the winch with one person too, bonus! auto rescue said: That came out looking first rate, I've been using the snatch block with a chain attached that is sold by a few vendors and it's worked out good for me. Reliable Towing said: Very nice, looks great and very user friendly Orcas Tow said: Thanks John, I have one of those also but the problem here is the roads are so narrow most of the time there's no room to diagonal the truck, lower the bed & winch, have you figured out how to use that for a side pull with the deck up? This should work well for a higher pull point also, we have lots of deep ditches here also, just another tool to get the job done when you get bad info. auto rescue said: Our roads up here are very limited as to shoulders, when I side pull I roll the bed back out of the locks, tilt it up a bit, run it back over the locks, then set the bed back down this gives me enough clearance to run the line out the side of the bed with out rubbing the bed, I also have a "side" rail that was installed when the bed was made which runs the length of the bed underneath it with stake pockets every foot or so down each side where I can put the chain through and hook the rail. Bear in mind a few things were built heavier on this truck and the whole thing weighs just over 22K unloaded. Next project hopefully this summer is to build a heavy headache rack to run my line back to or a separate winch set up similar to a side puller, I'm like you there is just not enough use to justify the cost of a side puller. Orcas Tow said: Yeah, I'm impressed with some of the twin line recoveries posted here from the carriers with sidepullers, 2 winches are always better than 1, even if only for a safety backup, keep us up to date on your headache rack project, your projects in the past have been top notch, I would much rather see a quality engineered home built piece of equipment than a mass produced unit any day. wreckerman0920 said: how much and when can you ship it out??????????????? Jim Lunsford said: Looks great Uzek LOL in viewing the pics I was thinking a set of wheel chocks would be nice for holding the truck when useing that thingy.....then I remembered I already have a set on my rollback and had completely forgot about haveing them ...could have used them just the other day instead if haveing the deputy hold my brakes my 550 wrecker has all wheel micro lock but rollback doesn't TOwBoY88 said: Very nice. Just like everything else from you. slim santa said: Uzek, my N.R.C. roller is built about the same. Once in a while I would wish my roller was about 6"s longer on each side. After you use that a few times I think you will see what I'm talking about. Nice job and great workmanship. Al Rod Midkiff said: the roller looks like a cool tool.. I would be concerned about how well you anchor a roll back. they are already a bit light for recovery work... and with that in mind.. it's not the worse thing in the world if your truck moves.... instead of breaking in two.. auto rescue said: Two of mine weigh over 22K unloaded when working cars & pickups They DON'T move I don't think Uzek is going to really run into a problem with his either. Jim Lunsford said: my 550 rollback weighs in at 11700 with gvrw of 19500 ... alum jerrdan bed and that includes shop built sidepuller and front winch but no wheellift...it do have a staying planted problem ...side pull isn't a problem with the outriggers... but backward or off to the side of the bed is troublesome at times .... Rod Midkiff said: Well instead of saying it's a problem.. look at it as good safety factor.... .... auto rescue said: Pray tell what would be the safety factors involved? Orcas Tow said: How a bout some pictures of that side puller, don't think I have seen it? My truck weighs 14,500, I don't plan on really testing its capabilities but it has to be better than extending the deck to the ground then winching with a snatch block at the end for a side pull from the ditch as I used to do, I never liked that as 100% of the stress is on the deck hinges with lots of bad leverage on the deck rails, this way it has less leverage on the deck & it is still in the bed locks up front for much more support overall plus a higher pull point. Spitz said: Looks pretty good. We used a similar setup for pulling cars out of snow filled ditches. It works well enough but you definatly have to keep in mind what you can pull.. You'll obviously get a feel for what will hurt the truck. We've never damaged ours but then again our wrecker now has a sidepuller to give you an idea.. ps- if you do work in snowy conditions, which i know you do.. Get some old chain you've put out of commision and lay it behind the rear tires and back up on top of them if you're having issues with anchoring your truck.. We had problems anchoring our truck with only 1/2 of snow and im sure you will too if you're pulling anything somewhat heavy.. We've actually anchored the rear of the truck so well this way we started running into problems with the front of the truck trying to swing around when pulling 90* off the back of the bed.. Rod Midkiff said: by safety factor I mean.. if you pull enough that the truck moves... you can only pull X hard.. the more you anchor... the more you can pull... and at some point.. you could over work the truck..... Just a comment.. (not trying to say anything negative about anyone..).. tator said: That would be when you pulled the winch out of the bed. Bud Jim Lunsford said: Uzek last time I posted pics of my puller on here I sorta got in trouble with Chuck (inventor of the sp8k) letter from his lawyer as well so instead of pics i'll simply place a link to the pics http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v79/j ... idepuller/ not one of my better fabbing jobs but it works pretty good ....best thing was gettin the headboard off the bed out of the way ...sorta makes a 19 ft bed into a 20 by removing it i've replaced the elect winch with a hyd ..works much better and stuck the elect on the front of the truck Reliable Towing said: Jim, your sidepuller looks great : ) are the legs hydraulic : ) how do you switch from side to side w/ that style guide - do you take the hook off?-- if so how many pins have you lost in the snow, I' m sure my clumsy hands would drop them in a snowbank somewhere Steven Jim Lunsford said: thanks Steven...the legs are manual...not a big deal as the truck tends to lean a bit when pulling so simply letting the leg down to the surface and locking holds fairly well...harder you pull the more the truck leans into it changing sides you pull the pin on the hook but there again no big deal as 99 % of the pulls are from the passenger side or at least they are for me the one winch control valve runs both winchs byway of a divider valve (thinks thats what its called) push knob in and deck winch runs..pull knob out for sidepuller MNPOOL said: Very nice work ! Seabeetow4u said: NICE! You have to drill into the bed or just use the chain holes to anchor? The wheels we have are going thru Towpartsnow.com soon, just shipped a bunch to them. I still like the idea of being able to move the wheel up the bed as necessary to different chain holes, but you idea rocks too! Erick - Camarillo Towing - (805)388-1185 - Camarillo, CA Energizer Bear said: Uzek, What a great idea. I remember seeing this post this past summer. But got busy with another project in the shop. I'm interested in a recovery wheel thingy too. Thanks for sharing your idea. Not Your Average Bear timjohn said: Here is one of my NRC tailboard units. You have to modify the century deck a bit, but it works great! We cut a hole in the top deck for the shaft to slid into. Then we cut a hole in the bottom for the pin that holds it in. Depending on the vehicle, you can sometimes load right over the top of it. It would be nice like Al said to a little bit longer bottom roller. But all in all, it has been a great addition to the truck. We used this tailboard adapter all last Winter. It never let us down. Orcas Tow said: For those who have asked. Sorry but I wont be marketing or building these for anybody but myself, too much liability & too many different variables for deck thickness, design, aluminum, steel, etc... to build a universal one. I posted the detailed pics so if anybody one else had a similar issue like me maybe some ideas could be shared as I have learned so much from what has others have shared here. I have used it a few times & it has worked well, I would like to see the variations if you build them, Slimsanta mentioned a longer roller, I have not had any issues yet but I see his point. I think the NRC design is a more universal unit as it looks like it mounts in a hole rather than mine relying on capturing the end edge of the deck for its strength, I would have liked to have built mine with that style mount for its speedy install but didn't feel comfortable relying on 1 weld where the male pipe would be welded to the bottom of the block. brattleborotowing said: thanks for your reply Uzek i understand about the liability ill have to see if i can get time to make on autorescue said: I'm slow I just realized after all this time the one Uzek made would work well for reverse pulling a vehicle off the bed as well. Orcas Tow said: I have used it quite a bit & it really is a handy tool, much easier on the truck bed when recovering a vehicle off the side. if you look at this picture it shows the worst way angle wire rope can enter the block The casualty would have to be very close to your truck or down a steep embankment for the wire rope to miss the roller, it's possible to miss the center roller but I feathered the end brackets so if it does miss it it will not be on a sharp edge. So, no I have not had any issues but if your building one the longer the bottom roller the better. auto rescue said: I had to hunt this post down because no matter how I cut it or try to justify it I can not see myself with a side puller especially with putting a fourth RB together and while it's the same size as the other two Fords it will be heavier yet and while the NRC would be faster since it's already made the reverse pull ability of your design was the winning point. twinbulls said: OK ... I am still waiting for mine ........ Where is it ???? I know you have some spare time so just fab up another ... I like yellow and send it my way.. include a bill I will send you payments every 4 weeks or so..... OK ???? Again Very nice job....looks GREAT !! Orcas Tow said: Tim, You fly my family & I down to your sunny state, put us up for a couple weeks, throw in 4 tickets to Disney & I'll hook you up, Uzek twinbulls said: Well here ya go ... I can put ya up at Disney and get ya in .... Thats no problem .... But as for the flight ??? sorry You get here and your covered... but ya better bring the TOOL !! And I will add a dinner in any country you want (Epcot) LOL....... My son works at Disney so I have a in>>>>> Orcas Tow said: Thanks Tim but seriously if you want to build one & have any questions I am happy to help in any way, its really not that hard just a couple 4 ton snatch blocks, grinder, a decent welder, many trial fittings before final welding & some elbow grease. I don't use my flatbed for recovery unless I get bad info but if a flatbed was your primary truck & a side puller was out of the question then this is an inexpensive very functional recovery tool. townomoe said: Sometimes you just have no choice, but side pulling off the back of the bed will put stress on the pins that the bed hinges on. Some guys say to roll the back and tilt it to the ground, but now you have lost the stability of the bed locks. Still, in my neck of the woods this would be a great tool for getting cars out ot mall parking lots or at the worlds largest building, the Everett Boeing Plant. Nice fabrication, looks good. www.dicks-towing.com tow4fun said: Any thoughts on just using 1 block up top?? Is there a reason that warrants using two (beside the convenience of pulling either way)?? I was thinking about using 1 block up top and adding an extra wide "guide" welded on top (illustrated in yellow). You could simply lay your rope under either side depending on which direction you wanted to pull. *NOTE: Please don't laugh at my photoshop abilities ....o.k., go ahead and laugh... I stink! danielswt said: one thing to take into consideration is. when using a roller like this straight off of the side you a very limited in what it will do before the winch line rubs on the roller supports. on our nrc,it works well,but if you go more than 20º downhill straight off of the side it is useless. in this picture it is at its maximum downhill ability before rubbing. we are currently in development of new system that will work much better. you really dont think about it untill you use it in the field, but 80% of everything i have done is straight off the side and not out the back. " Don't tell us how good you are, show us! " Orcas Tow said: Dave, what if you were winching a car towards you at night with the PD wanting the road cleared & you were not watching the rope through the block or the casualty rolled in the direction of the open end of the block causing the wire rope to be free from the block? As much as we all like to believe we are in total control & aware of everything going on at our recovery scene I like as many things to be dummy proof as possible just in case I have my eyes on traffic or maneuvering the casualty around an object or watching the rigging, etc... tow4fun said: Thanks for the reply, I can understand your point. As far as this device being hard on a rollback...I'm sure it could but with some common sense I'm sure it can be a very useful tool. My thinking is it has to be better to have the bed in the locks and pull rather than having the bed fully extended and pulling off the corner of the bed with a snach block and chain. santiam01 said: I have seen some very damaged rollbeds of all different brands. The common factors in ALL of the cases seem to be doing something the bed was not designed to do, & or lack of maintenance. With that said, if you are comfortable using the device, & you KNOW what the resistance is & that you are within your ratings (good luck getting ratings from a manufacturer on anything but loading a disabled vehicle in a straight line with the winch & the bed) use one of these. The construction of the unit looks very nice, & I understand where the desire to have it comes from. All I can say is, we used to focus on building trucks that were driver friendly, today, we try to build trucks focused on being driver proof. This could very well be like giving a stick of dynamite with a half second fuse to person with one arm, then tell them to light it & throw it! The potential for damage & destruction is very real! I don't want to be the "I told you so" guy. auto rescue said: How's about not only making the bottom roller wider but have it sitting up more level to the shoulder of the pulley to keep some of the weight or pressure off the thinner part (outside edge) of the pulley? Orcas Tow said: John, in my many trial fits for placement of the sheaves & rollers the closer the roller is to the sheave the better & the closer the sheaves to each other the better. My initial thought for the ideal block was a sheave & fairlead assembly as you would find on the end of the boom on any light duty wrecker as it would allow for the wire rope to be encapsulated & allow a true 360 degree pull. I couldn't figure out how to make it so the wire rope was removable from the fairlead, I don't know enough about the side pullers out there to say but I think their fairleads allow the wire rope to be removed from the sheave/fairlead??? Didn't the old Holmes mechanical s allow for the wire rope to be removed from the fairleads, wonder if you could mount a Holmes fairlead to a mounting plate & WALLA, the perfected Tailboard Block? Looking forward to any blocks in progress pic's. auto rescue said: It just so happens I have a New old one sitting (but not that you could easily remove the line) around collecting dust, what an idea! Now back to the drawing board. edit; thinking about it while doing a job and I've decided not to try that route as there are times I'd want the tail end of the bed on the ground and the line would not sit in the pulley all the time and if I can do something wrong I will, don't even have to try hard to do so Orcas Tow said: "edit; thinking about it while doing a job and I've decided not to try that route as there are times I'd want the tail end of the bed on the ground and the line would not sit in the pulley all the time" I don't follow? auto rescue said: I think it's the SP8000 that you have to pull off a snatch block from the side below the head because of problems with the line coming straight off the winch in line with the top off the pulley and when you pull at an angle forwards or reverse (sideways) the line wants to ride up the pulley or something close to that problem (no downward pressure on the pulley). What I'm thinking is if I set the tail on the ground and the line wants to go to the vehicle say a couple of feet above the ground (above the pulley level) whats to keep the line sitting in the pulley like when the vehicle is sitting below the pulley level when making a pull. I hope that makes sense. Orcas Tow said: Does your Holmes fairlead swivel 360 degrees & also allow the wire rope to be taken out? Can you snap a pic of it? auto rescue said: It would swivel 360 but I'm absolutely positive the ends/sides are bolted together and do not allow for quick removal of the line like a 600 or 750 does. I'm sure the "new" design head has the holes for the bolts but just has a pin or nothing holding the outer edge together, mine is a Holmes from either a 440 or 1200 they both looked the very same to me. danielswt said: orcas,wait a little bit before you go making a new design with a holmes sheave guide. it will work wonders off the side but straight off of the back it will not work. just like on the SP8000's the head will rotate uncontrolably when it has little to no load on it. " Don't tell us how good you are, show us! " Orcas Tow said: Daniel, Im not making a new one, I have no complaints with mine but just looking to see if there is possibly a better way for the next guy, sounds like John is ready to build one. auto rescue said: Actually I'm not really ready to build one but making four of them is another story all together, but they will be done one at a time to make sure the custom fit is correct for each bed. SP8000 said: Having an SP8000 that I have used the daylights out of (Tom Luciano was a little suprised with a couple of jobs!), and a 600, the problem that I have seen with the SP8000 is that there is no protrusion on the sheave head. Why are Bill Bottoms sheave heads so long? Simple, to keep the sheave head pointed towards the casualty. This is where the SP8000 comes up "short". It has no protrusion/ tail/ follower tube to keep the sheave head pointed at the casualty. This is why you have to put a block below it to keep it from flipping over, but even then you still have to manually "aim" the sheave head towards the block as the block swings towards the casualty. As for the pin or bolt in the end of the SP8000/ 440/ 1200 sheave heads, I think that they were just there to keep the sheave head from splitting apart if it was side loaded from not being "aimed" properly. Keep up the creative thoughts guys. That's how Ernie Holmes, Bill Bottoms, Norbert Bertling, et al have brought our industry to where it is today. Jeff Leavitt - 86 Towing - Gabriels, NY - 518-891-6666 BlackAutoload said: I am looking at making the roller fairlead, stake pocket version rather than this. http://baileystowinginc.com/srg.htm like this one. The nrc way seems like an expensive approach if you don't have two spare snatch blocks. Spitz said: The head of the sp8000 needs to have more angle upwards, this would solve the issue they have. The axis where the sheave rides is too high in relation to the axis the head can swivel around, any halfway straight pull and the sheave can twist as the line is above that axis where the head can swivel around. I say the outer recovery head needs more upward angle, maybe 15* or so would be alot to help the situation. As for the bolt in the end of the tip, we removed that as you cannot get the line out any other way, we drilled the hole slightly bigger and put a nice pin in with a linch pin to secure the pin. The pin can float in that hole if it needs to.. I dont understand why the bolt is in there to begin with, i dont think it should be. Detroit Wrecker said: I am Impressed! Nice Work! DodgeTowGuy134 said: That things looks GREAT, and I want one! I wondered if anyone have any further comment about tow4fun suggestion of using just one pully wheel instead of the 2.... any luck on making this a item that is marketed for the industry? Orcas Tow said: I've been using this since the start of this thread & it's worked great & helped me out of a few otherwise difficult situations or trips back to the shop to get the wrecker. The difficulty with mass producing this is all the tailboards are a different shape/thickness, you would have to produce one for each manufacturer. The strength in securing this to the tailboard is where it wraps the end of the deck, if this is not fitted properly it could be a accident waiting to happen. I had to change the end cap where it wraps around the tailboard to fit to my new Chevron deck.
  2. Orcas Tow

    My "recovery wheel thingy"

    Old topic brought back but man I use the heck out of that thing!. Its made the move from my old International to my next truck & will go on to my new on the way truck, I wouldn't leave home without it:)
  3. I bought a new to me rollback, 2015 4300 in picture, looking for transport from Chesterfield MO to Seattle Washington in next few weeks. Thanks, Uzek @ Orcas Towing susol@centurytel.net
  4. Orcas Tow

    Plow Trucks....

    Ed, your graphics on all your trucks look great!
  5. Orcas Tow

    A few LD/MD tows...

    I did take the aluminum guards off right at the pivot as they were chaffing the hoses right off the bat, also took the aluminum covers off the outside forward edge of the crossbar so small gravel can get out, pressure wash now & then the guts of the crossbar.
  6. Orcas Tow

    A few LD/MD tows...

    Wow, my hoses lasted about 70,000 miles/9 years
  7. Orcas Tow

    A few LD/MD tows...

    Curious to what the hydraulic pressure is when it stalls the hydraulics?
  8. Orcas Tow

    A few LD/MD tows...

    I have towed many a 1 ton, 450's & 550's with my 2001 550 & Autogrip. The other day I noticed one of the L arms lower than the other at the end by about 3/4", looked it over carefully & found a crack at a weld where the outer arm ties into the inner one. Since it was simply a weld failure I cleaned, squared it back up & re welded it. Weak weld or overloaded here & there over the years? Hard to say but the Autogrip is a stout unit, a few hoses replaced & regular grease has been all it has asked of me in 18 years.
  9. Orcas Tow

    Steel core versus super swagged cable

    I run swaged on all my light duty wreckers & flatbed & would not use anything else. With that said I ran it on my 14 ton with 12 Warn winches, small winch drums, the stiff 1/2" swaged rope didnt like the small drum, fought with it until I sold it for a Holmes 750
  10. Had a call for a car on a rock due to unable to see out frozen windshield😖 . Lift car & pull the rock out using what I had for an anchor across the street, it was driven away. Lucky there was no kids in front of her as it was that time of morning...
  11. Orcas Tow

    Subaru on the rocks.

    Thanks. The 4x6 wood block was to create distance between my wire rope & the fender & yes I always try & minimize my liability & maximize safety of others that may not be aware while working in a public area:)
  12. Topic Originally Created in February of 2007: Had to remove this truck from the transprters rig, winched it off & ran another line in to a tie down in front of the T with a snatch block & back to the front axle so it wouldn't roll back on me, story was this was built for Disneyland back in the day, its a working popcorn maker on a big scale with miles of polished copper pipe & a huge copper kettle inside. Hello from sunny (when its not raining) Orcas Island
  13. Detailed pictures - 2 trucks, lift & remove 2 large rocks that they had driven over the evening before. Perched on top of 2 large rocks, the gas tank had a 5 gallon dent & was sitting on top of the largest of the 2 rocks. We had to be careful to lift & not drag to prevent further damage to the gas tank, more to the story to the right...
  14. Orcas Tow

    Chevron Renegade

    FLC has a sharp truck. Id be curious to see that trucks deck & box layout also Ed. Heres a few of mine.
  15. Recently a friend retired his tow company his father started in 1962, I bought his 1981 Kenworth W900A, 350 Cummins/1962 Holmes 750 with a 30k Zacklift. I am getting to know her, never using a mechanical wrecker before there is a learning curve I understand. I have been over all the moving parts, inspecting, greasing, flushing fluids, adjusting PTO chain, replacing boom cables, etc. She's a good old girl that will serve me well on my small island. I am wondering if someone familiar with the split booms can enlighten me on if you can perform a hard side pull directly off the boom with them pinned together, say a heavy truck in the ditch on a narrow road, can I use one line directly off the boom on a hard side pull & the other down to a snatchblock off the tailboard D ring then to the casualty for a low pull. Will the center pin connecting the booms handle a hard side pull? Thanks. builder 2 said: I usually run a block off the d ring to help relieve stress from side load on the booms. You can also unlace the cable from the boom and pull directly from the mast, depending on the angle the side leg could be used. I have 2 A models that we run and I love them. Orcas Tow said: Thanks for the reply. So a hard (45 degree) side pull is not recommended then? Im thinking simplicity, the boom sheaves are 12' in the air, any words of wisdom about pulling the wire rope out of the sheave without manually lowering the booms or is lowering the only option? I do understand the physics of pulling directly from the mast but pulling the rope from the sheaves at 12' to achieve a mast pull seems sketchy for my health:). builder 2 said: You should be able to do a hard 45 degree pull from the boom, I just run a second line through a block or dead end the cable at the d ring to reduce side load on the booms/latch. As far as raising/ lowering the booms. That's the down side of non hydraulics. They will make you work. On the plus side based on your experience and thinking outside the box you will make this truck sing. Looks like a zacklift, any spades? Orcas Tow said: I restrung the 200' pair of 5/8" wire ropes on the drums & also replaced the wire rope for the booms, all bigger & heavier than what Im used to. Its been fun, really respecting the old school operators, no excuses, no second chances, no OSHA approved equipment, pay attention/respect to what your doing or someones getting hurt. Yes hydraulic spades & a Z-30 Zacklift, can't wait to really put her to the test, trying to educate myself to use the combo to its full potential. builder 2 said: A lot of the 750's were on a shorter wheelbase, which helps doing recovery work on back road and tight spaces. Nice looking truck. If it was close to me I would have bought it. MACK6X6 said: If you are doing a heavy pull / recovery, I would get the truck "set" with the lines in the booms. Then, if you want to pull off the mast you can take the lines out and simply swing the booms out of your way rather than lower them. On ours, we installed a large D-ring in the center of the tailboard at the very top and will run the line from the mast through a block, then back to the casualty. Of course, we don't have all the obstructions on our tailboard that you do but you get the picture. You may be able to get one in there. Also, the feet on the Zach stiff legs are small - you may want to cut them off & install something larger along with Trebron concrete spikes. Excellent recovery unit - looks nice. Steve. Bob Graham said: looks like it has homemade booms and support frame , booms are too long / high Orcas Tow said: Correct, the booms have been replaced. What was the length of the original 750 booms? I was told it was a 1962 bed which would have been web booms (?), the bed sits on top of a heavy full length 6x6 I beam, the mast is bolted & then welded with gussets to the I beam, then the I beam sits on top of the KW frame. It was all done in the 90's & there is not a paint crack around any welds or mounting bolts. santiam01 said: Usually, you will tip the tow truck over, or drag the nose of the truck in line with the pull, before you do any damage to a 750, on a side pull, straight off the end of the boom. Just make sure the controls are in good shape, not much worse then getting a mechanical unit stuck in gear......By the way, that's a good looking truck, & I know you will make it even better! MACK6X6 said: There were 2 different lengths of square (usually extendable) booms (that I know of anyway), depending on whether or not it was mounted on a single axle or tandem axle truck - but I don't know the length. And Santiam is very correct, if you are on a hard pull, just because you "let up" on the levers doesn't mean they will disengage - sometimes you have to "yank" them out of gear - makes ya' a little nervous. LOL. Good luck, Steve. Orcas Tow said: This has been converted to large air rams to engage & disengage winches, I will click a picture later of the rams. Hope this will address any sticking engaged on a hard pull but the PTO & clutch air in/out are close to the controls in a pickle. Reds said: Snatch blocks are your best friends with one of these, we run a few yet. In reference to the winches staying locked in I believe your thinking free spool...not the case here, although if you look how your winches free spool with the air rams your referring to you have 3 teeth that disengage for free wheel or engage/winching operations...that same set up on a gear reduction is what's inside that winch box to forward the rope or reverse the rope hence the dogging in or clash sound of the gears when you hit the levers for winching. If your on a hard pull you've got the winches pulling cable in things are creaking and groaning just because you let off those levers doesn't mean she stops those internal gears will bind sometimes to where you have to actually yank the lever pretty good to make it stop winching, you'll know when it happens just be ready cause as mentioned it'll pull it's self right over. At that point it simply means you need another part to the line. On hard pulls with these I just put 3 parts to the line and let it work seems the leverage is so much better, its slow going but it is what it is. As the booms look about right it is said roughly 12 inches above the mast +- keeps a little down pressure on the ass for you. When I run directly off the mast I'll loosen the rope to the point of no weight on it take the rope out of the boom heads then split the booms holding on to them so the don't swing to far out of the way .there heavy and hard to get back together once 90 out and they will get there if your leaning one way seems one side always goes down first on a hard pull. On one truck we put tabs at the base of the boom with chains to hold them from swinging to far. There fun simple units to run and use, rigging and action reaction is the key thinking one step ahead. On a couple side notes the 750s can spool 250ft comfortably 5/8 rope. You also made mention you replace the boom rope with new and bigger, be careful in doing so larger rope on the pulleys can result in 2 very negative reactions 1) the rope doesn't fit well so it smashes it down into the groove of the pulley possibly breaking some strands leading to future failure. 2) The rope does smash down into the groove possibly splitting the pulley apart resulting in failure those pulleys were cast and they do break I've broke the ones where the rope comes through the mast back to the boom heads 2 of them on my 600's I suggest you replace them ASAP just because. Trebron does have replacements that we've used there steel with a bronze bushing I'm sure if you look you'd see rope lines in the current pulleys (there soft metal) They will always break when you have 105 ft of rope out so as to ruin the whole line LOL. As far as a side pull you can pull any angle you want on that unit and your not going to hurt it or the boom pin the truck will walk itself and find the happy medium now your front end may be on a embankment when said and done and you can't move cause your stuck but they are pretty tough to destroy or hurt. But you must respect them and listen to them they will talk to you through the chassis, wrecker, winch levers, etc. Good luck....FYI holmes has 2 boom sizes for the 750s X-7 is what there referred to hence extend 7 feet. MECHANICALLY The 750 single axle boom length is 135 1/2 inches retracted 219 1/2 extended these were also found on a lot of 600's also they put bushings where they pin on to make them fit...simple economical business sense smarts it interchanges seeing's how holmes only made couple different size bodies. The 750 tandem body used a 166 1/2 retracted and 251 1/2 extended boom. Boom heads typically hang a bit over the tailboard as todays hydraulics do. 1 more note as your booms were replaced or reworked they don't have the loops towards the base like OEM (find some pictures of other trucks and study the booms at the base) These loops can be used for a couple different things like I hang my snatch blocks from them...On one truck we have a short chain to them so they don't swing around...or you can hook the cable hook to them hit the lever raise it up a bit unlatch the boom cog WITH OUT THE CRANK ON THE DRUM and lower it down 1 side at a time set it right on the bed and reverse to raise the boom (no or minimal cranking involved) Just a few tad bits on that learning curve. Send me a cell number I'll snap a couple pictures and send them to you if you'd like. OrcasTow said: Here's the air rams for the winch in/out. I have not loaded the winches yet but will this weekend for some testing, better to find out in private than in public. Wesley, I believe the boom rope was 5/8" from the factory, thats what I re installed, it fits the sheaves well. Your the 3rd person to advise not leaving the boom crank in place:) I did notice the loops on the booms are not there, might be a handy addition in the future. Trex said: I own 2 750s and they re beasts and if u run a 3 part line when you need it well thats a beast on steroid Just curious whats your wheelbase? hope you make a lot of money. Greets from Panama. builder 2 said: Have you had to use it yet? Let's see some action photos! Orcas Tow said: A few times so far, a Garbage truck tow, Propane tanker winch & propane truck tow, all pretty straight forward. Will get something fun to share soon. Its amazing this truck handles the same empty or loaded with 30k behind it:)
  16. What a mess, thanks for sharing & keep up the good work.
  17. Im learning something new every time I use the 750. I had a 25k backhoe rolled over off a road edge the other day, I positioned across the road opposite the backhoe parallel to the hoe slightly forward of it. I ran a high line directly off the boom sheave to the boom of the hoe through a snatch block then terminated the wire rope back at my boom sheave for an initial lift with the drivers side winch line. I ran the passenger side winch line to a snatch block off the tailboard D ring then to another snatch block at the U shaped pull loop at the bottom of the mast (see bent loop in pictures) then to the drivers front corner of hoe, through a snatch block then terminating the wire rope back at the loop at the bottom of the mast (as depicted in the drawing) not an ideal rig & didn't notice the bent loop until I broke the rigging down. Can anyone advise on a better way to create a low pull point on a 750? I saw a Treberon unit with a roller up high on the mast so you could run the line directly from the mast sheave down over the roller to a snatch block at the bottom of the mast then out to the casualty for a true low pull. Otherwise as I see it the 750's designed to pull from the mast sheave off the side directly to the casualty which you are stuck with a high initial line pull. Anyone using/used a D ring on the factory 750 outrigger? Builder 2 said: For what it's worth my u is slightly bent also, I think the way you rigged the passenger side line was over thinking, I would unlace the pass, side and pull directly from the mast. On the drivers side I tend to use a block down to the d ring, this will help keep the booms from side loading them real hard. I probably would have taken advantage of a Holmes tree. With a 750 you have a lot you can play with, just keep expiermenting. Looked like a nice job! Orcas Tow said: Thanks for the input. Picture #5 & 6 shows the rear re rigged as you described with a low pull off my tailboard D ring through a block going to another block low on the hoes rear frame then terminated back to my tailboard to drag the rear of the hoe back onto the roadway. I was concerned that with the high center of gravity on the hoe if I didn't create a high pull point for the initial lift it may not have uprighted or drug my truck sideways. Builder 2 said: I think the way I described would do exactly the same? only my low line would be in the rear and my high line in the front. Compared to your high line in the rear versus low in the front I would have been tempted to pull forward more and run pass line off d ring on tail board to front of the wreck and drivers line to a Holmes tree to the rear of wreck. Then you could winch it forward and still control the rear from tipping back over. Your blessed with lots of trees, out here all the farmers ripped them out so they could farm it. Orcas Tow said: Im used to running a light duty & taking advantage of every inch of rigging leverage that I can conjure up to flip a big dog over hence my high pull in the rear at the top of the hoes boom & low pull in the front at the hoe frame. Good to have multiple ways to perform the same recovery. Builder 2 said: I removed my twin booms and sold them, replaced with a kemps set up, just about done. sdr said: if I remember "been a long time" those U rings on the side of the mast are for chaining the outrigger. MACK6X6 said: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the loop that you bent is for chaining back the side leg - not designed for pulling off with a snatch block - only designed to pull straight out at 90* of the side. On my 600, I have a loop welded (factory) close to the pivot on the boom that you could do what you did and it will be fine. You can always fasten (weld or bolt) another pull point / d-ring down close to where you were. The procedure you used was excellent - just the wrong point. Thanks, Steve. EagleOne said: That side loop isn't for winching. Just my 2 cents. Orcas Tow said: Whats it for, there's 2 on each side, one high on the mast & the other at deck height? JUSTFISHING said: I believe if you drop the line off your boom you can double up a side pull off the mast close to 90 degrees . lower one is for chaining your side leg so it doesn't slide out. Hard pull drop the other side off boom and anchor to a tree doubled up to anchor the truck , now you can really pull . If the situation warrants swing the booms for higher lift if needed . always use more lines to your anchor side than to your winching side , for just in case . Orcas Tow said: Thanks for the input. the sheave will not allow for an immediate drop off the mast, about a 45 degree drop of the sheave is all it will allow before the end of the sheave hits the mast hence my creative rigging to get a low pull off the side (which worked this time but noticed it damaged the loop when breaking down the rigging). Allenstowing said: Here is an old ad picture. Orcas Tow said: Perfect, thank you!
  18. Orcas Tow

    Single line 4x4 Wreckers

    Agreed, how much more $$$ is it for a dual winch on a $80-90k truck, $2k? Seems silly losing a sale for $2k. I had mine built new because I couldn't find a 4x4 Miller truck anywhere on the ground to the specs I wanted.
  19. Orcas Tow

    Ting noise at takeoff

    My 2001 F550 had done the same thing since new, thought it was just normal until I did the clutch at 50,000 miles & found the transfer case output yoke had play, torqued the nut to spec with loc tight & all is good.
  20. Orcas Tow

    Ting noise at takeoff

    I would confirm torque on the pinion nut & the trans/transfer case output yoke nut, one of those may be loose enough for the yoke to rock in the splines causing that noise which will transfer throughout the driveshaft & make it difficult to pinpoint source by ear..
  21. 2007 F650, 5.9 Cummins with an Allison trans with about 40,000 original miles. No prior symptoms. Today loaded double to go off island, shut truck off at ferry landing, went to re start to get on ferry & no crank, no signal to fender well mounted starter solenoid. Jumped starter solenoid & truck started but Service Engine light on & the transmission was in limp mode. Trace no crank & trans limp mode to blown 15 amp #30 "Allison Transmission" fuse blown in under dash fuse box, install new fuse, it blows as soon as key is turned to run position. I unplugged all modules (ABS, TCM, etc...) still blows fuse. Followed wiring harness closely from TCM forward to look for chaffing, found nothing & was confirming fuse was still blowing as I worked my way forward. I unclipped the harness at the fuel filter to confirm no chaffing/bare wires & then the fuse stopped blowing, nothing found. Re secured everything & it's been starting & operating normally again. Anyone have a similar experience & give me a place to look as I have not been able to duplicate the symptom again & did not find a smoking gun. Thank you.
  22. Orcas Tow

    F650 blowing "Allison Transmission" fuse help

    To follow up I never have been able to duplicate the symptom after tanks of fuel run through it & my diagnostic testers hooked up so I ended up running a single new wire outside the harness back to the Trans module clipping the factory white/orange tracer wire at each end. With no symptom present at this time I think its the best solution.
  23. Orcas Tow

    Balancing 19.5 tires?

    I have had my 245/70-195 tires balanced multiple times with multiple trucks & multiple tire brands over the last 20 or so years & every time I get them spin balanced they shake at different speeds. I have never had a set of 19.5's run smooth over 55 MPH other than when new. I am limited in tire dealers that can even fit them on their machine but Les Schwab has been my go to. What are you guys doing for balancing, what machine are they using? Thanks.
  24. Orcas Tow

    Balancing 19.5 tires?

    2001, everything is tight & minor imbalance before balance beads installed in unbalanced tires, then considerable wobble after beads.
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