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A few LD/MD tows...


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Transit bus with a transmission problem...

 

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F550 Gas Truck with a big boom was heavy, especially in the snow. Pulled it with a strap to get it to the road due to steep slick hills... Towed to the shop for a freeze up (-9 deg this morning)

 

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Ambulance was pretty heavy too...Towed to the shop due to exhaust problem.

 

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Engine problem on a service truck...

 

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I have towed many a 1 ton, 450's & 550's with my 2001 550 & Autogrip. The other day I noticed one of the L arms lower than the other at the end by about 3/4", looked it over carefully & found a crack at a weld where the outer arm ties into the inner one. Since it was simply a weld failure I cleaned, squared it back up & re welded it. Weak weld or overloaded here & there over the years? Hard to say but the Autogrip is a stout unit, a few hoses replaced & regular grease has been all it has asked of me in 18 years.

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Hello from sunny (when its not raining) Orcas Island

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We pull shafts unless like the gas truck was 4wd so the case can be put in neutral....obviously the rear tow was in 2wd.

 

The wheel grids haven't been an issue yet....the wheel lift may be though. This is our 1st Chevron so I'm not sure what to expect. For instance, that service truck from the rear was an issue that it wouldn't tilt until it was sucked all the way in? My previous unit would out work the truck in every aspect. We are going to do some checking...

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Ive had to re-weld the L-arms a couple times throughout the years on my chevron auto loader. of course i havent been very nice to it and have probably had a few things on there that should'nt have been. Also seems like once a year im replacing the short hydraulic lines at the pivot joint. other than that its been a pretty reliable unit. Mine has been in service for 9 years now. 

PROFESSIONAL TOWING & RECOVERY IS NOT JUST A JOB.. IT IS A LIFESTYLE

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Really!?? another company in my town has a chevron unit like mine and we have both have had issues with those same lines. After talking it over with them, I figured it was just a Chevron design flaw seeing how we both were going through those lines at about the same frequency. You certainly got your money's worth out of yours. Or we are doing something wrong around here. LOL.

PROFESSIONAL TOWING & RECOVERY IS NOT JUST A JOB.. IT IS A LIFESTYLE

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I did take the aluminum guards off right at the pivot as they were chaffing the hoses right off the bat, also took the aluminum covers off the outside forward edge of the crossbar so small gravel can get out, pressure wash now & then the guts of the crossbar.

 

Hello from sunny (when its not raining) Orcas Island

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Ed,

 

It is said these units are the hot sellers now, with the stiff legs installed.  I've been on the fence a bit with the standard wrecker/chevron and auto grip/standard pivot L arms.  Is it possible at some point to take a picture with one of these bigger trucks on the hook more from the side...I'm curious after they fold down and your hooked to the tailboard distance vs. standard wrecker and stinger extension.  I couldn't imagine it being much difference but sometimes 5-6 inches makes a difference. Are the auto grips 4 or 6,000 lbs?

 

Thanks 

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Ed I have to agree with you on the feet anchoring these trucks.  I took mine out the other night and winched out a semi that was just spinning in the mud, thank god he didnt bury it.  I used a 4 part line to get him out, but having the feet flipped made all the difference in the world, and saved me from an hour trip to get get my rotator.

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  • 7 months later...
On 1/27/2019 at 8:33 PM, EdsTowing said:

We pull shafts unless like the gas truck was 4wd so the case can be put in neutral....obviously the rear tow was in 2wd.

 

The wheel grids haven't been an issue yet....the wheel lift may be though. This is our 1st Chevron so I'm not sure what to expect. For instance, that service truck from the rear was an issue that it wouldn't tilt until it was sucked all the way in? My previous unit would out work the truck in every aspect. We are going to do some checking...

Speaking of 4wd and being put into neutral, I picked one from the rear axle a couple months ago, put it in 4 wheel neutral and strapped the steering wheel, made sure the hubs were unlocked and took off. Only to be met with seeing the transfer case and front driveline flying out from under the truck a mile down the road. Be careful doing it that way, I'd suggest just pulling the driveline and going that way.

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From a technical standpoint....obviously your hubs were engaged. There's no other choice right? I don't know what kind of truck you were towing...but there is more to the situation.

 

Now I'm kind of new to this so maybe I need more learnin but if the hubs are unlocked and or the transfer case is verified in neutral, this procedure will work. 

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