Introducing new tool Key Block for side pulls from rear chain slots of a slideback

[keyblock]

Hello: 

 

I've just developed and am promoting a new tool to perform sidepulls from the rear chain slots of a vehicle transport truck (slideback, rollback). The Key Block will replace the snatch block 90 percent of the time. You'll still want a snatch block to do true snatch work when compounding to pull really hard or from a tree or other anchor point. However, when doing any sidepull from the rear chain slots of a slideback's bed, the Key Block will become the tool of choice. Watch the video below and check out my website, KeyBlock.net. Then shoot me a message and let me know what you think. 

 

Thanks, Randy

 

 

[BlackAutoload]

I am a hard sell of "new" products.

The downside to this product and other already on the market like it( side puller 2000, chain lock cable pulley), is the pulley is fixed at a parallel angle to the deck.  This doesn't work for me.

A basic chain end snatch block doesn't have this limitation... and it is already on most rollbacks.

[keyblock]

I appreciate your hard sell attitude to new products. Praise feels good, but does not improve flaws. You have a valid concern. Specifically, there can be a problem when using the Key Block to roll a car over with the bed lowered to the ground. As the car goes up on its side, the winch line can start to approach the Key Block in an alarming angle threatening to walk off of the top of the sheave. However, raising the bed back up reduces this angle. I feel the Key Block does a great job of a select number of tasks and can replace the snatch block in those cases. But a snatch block will still be a required tool and as you point out, it is already on nearly every slideback. 

 

Regarding the other tools you cite, I'm aware of the Side Puller 2000/Jr. etc. but not the "chain lock cable pulley". Can you provide a link or source for that? 

 

Thanks for your comment. 

[BlackAutoload]

http://www.towpartsnow.com/store/recovery-winching/side-pullers-and-accessories/chain-lock-cable-pulley.html

 

[Paw Paw Towing LLC]

The fact that nothing is preventing the cable from slipping off under load is scary. Snatch blocks fully enclose the cable. I know NFPA and I think military require any pulling/winching anchor points to be fully enclosed, not an open hook etc. That cable could do some serious damage if it comes loose...

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[keyblock]

I appreciate your concern and agree. The winch line coming off my tool, or acting in other unexpected ways is scary. So is placing my body between freeway traffic and a tow truck / disabled vehicle. And I'm all for reducing risk where possible. But I believe my tool can be used safely and can make the rest of a difficult load out easier and quicker, which reduces risk. So I believe we are left with a dangerous job, that employs a number of tools that carry their own risk and demand appropriate respect. Snatch blocks require some sort of disassembly/reassembly to deploy. That takes time, additional time in the hot zone. J-hooks present a similar risk of not "fully enclosing" the winch line, and worse, damage it, but are sometimes used to redirect a winch line. I believe my tool presents a vastly better solution to the frequent need of redirecting the winch line at a chain slot. 

[3DogsTowingLLC]

As far as time in the Hot Zone, one thing ive always done and instructed my operators to do, we leave the snatch block on the cable at all times, it takes far less time to pull the snatch block to anywhere on the bed and drop the chain end in a key hole slot than it would to employ this tool.  Yes you have a good idea going on, but it needs to be refined somehow to enclose the cable to keep it from flying out under load. Will you offer it with different size pulleys?  On my rollback, I use 7/16th cable, and by the looks if it, with the 3/8 cable that was being used in the video, larger cable would come out easier.  I wish you luck with this and hope to see an update on your product. 

[goodmichael]

I do have a few questions...……..

What is the metallurgic structure of that tool?

Do you have a test unit that has gone through at least twenty or thirty hours of service?

Are they manufactured here in the states, of US metal? I do not trust the manufacturing of Chinese steel. It is inferior. It is generally crap. No disrespect to crap. Just research Galaxy tow trucks. I broke one of the spools on one of their demo units at the tow show. I was merely assessing the throw of the spool and it snapped. I told the rep he needed to send that one back to China for research and development!

 

I do not have an issue buying and or trying new products, but I have to say, that the unprotected surface area, where the wire rope is exposed on the pulley is a concern to me. I will not do anything that is a risk. I do not gamble with other peoples lives. And I WILL walk from a scene if I am not given the mechanism of 100% safety. If I ask LE for a lane and they refuse, good luck to them because I am packing up and going home. My team's life as well as well as life is worth more than any fee. I do not change tires on the side of any road, and I do not work a scene on the side of a highway unless I have a blocked lane, period.

That is my risk management system.

[keyblock]

The base is Tenzaloy 713 aluminum, the foot is 4140 steel, US made, 2 units destroyed in 2 independent certified testing facilities and failed at 30,000 pounds lateral force applied to the sheave with wire rope, 5 units in the field with independent towing companies for field testing and feedback. 

 

I have a question for you. Can you please explain your concern with "where the wire rope is exposed on the pulley"? 

[keyblock]

On 6/13/2018 at 10:08 AM, 3DogsTowingLLC said:

As far as time in the Hot Zone, one thing ive always done and instructed my operators to do, we leave the snatch block on the cable at all times, it takes far less time to pull the snatch block to anywhere on the bed and drop the chain end in a key hole slot than it would to employ this tool.  Yes you have a good idea going on, but it needs to be refined somehow to enclose the cable to keep it from flying out under load. Will you offer it with different size pulleys?  On my rollback, I use 7/16th cable, and by the looks if it, with the 3/8 cable that was being used in the video, larger cable would come out easier.  I wish you luck with this and hope to see an update on your product. 

I know others leave their snatch block on the winch line. I never did because I didn't like it in the way 90 - 95 percent of the time. Regarding the time to hook your snatch block to the bed, are you using the snatch block's hook to attach to a chain slot? I don't think that's a very safe method. Does your snatch block have a length of chain attached instead of a hook? That makes for even more equipment in the way most of the time and take longer to deploy than my Key Block. Are you using a separate length of chain to make a loop at a chain slot? If so, you have to make a trip to the front of the bed or a tool box. In that case, you can arrive back at the chain slot with either your length of chain or my Key Block in the same amount of time. At that point, you can deploy my Key Block with one hand in one second. That's hard to beat! 

 

Others have expressed the same concern regarding the winch line not being fully enclosed like a snatch block does. Fair enough. On the other hand, I like the speed of use without such measures. Others agree and are very happy with the design. To each his/her own. Every aspect of towing can be performed recklessly. The only way for the winch line to "fly out under load" is if the winch line is approaching the Key Block's sheave from a high angle. This scenario can present itself when rolling a car over using one of the rear chain slots with the bed's rear down on the ground and the car comes up on its side. This high angle of approach can be reduced to almost nothing by raising the bed back up to a level position. 

 

At this time, I'm not planning of offering different sized sheaves. The sheave I'm using is for 1/2 inch wire rope. I picked this size for several reasons including a deeper groove to keep the winch line from wanting to walk up and out of the groove. 

[3DogsTowingLLC]

I equip my trucks with snatch blocks that have chain ends on them, and i'm not sure where you used to keep your snatch block while hooked onto the winch cable, but mine is stored up next to the winch with the chain hooked to the driver side, literally as a operator is walking back to the controls they can grab the chain end and walk the snatch block down to where they need it on the bed.  Again if some of the concerns me and others have expressed get addressed I would not be opposed to trying this new piece of equipment.  You've got a very good idea going on.

[keyblock]

Ha! I never thought about hooking the length of chain up at the front of the bed. But I never had that style of snatch block either. Nicely done! As I said I never left it on the winch line, because without the length of chain to hook at the front as you do, the snatch block would slide down to the end of the winch line as soon as the bed was deployed. 

 

As to the concern of the winch line coming off during use, I'm still not convinced this is enough of a risk to keep this tool out of the hands of those who want to use it. Other than rolling a car over and creating a high approach angle, what other scenario are you thinking about that would cause the winch line to come off? And in answering, keep in mind that raising the rear of the bed will help reduce or eliminate this high angle of approach.